tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12027169306257344532024-03-13T02:30:05.639+00:00GeneralNews, technology, tools, education, development, anything ..iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.comBlogger101125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-51819674161333015842011-07-20T23:39:00.003+01:002011-07-20T23:47:32.897+01:00facebook Down<span id="result_box" class="" lang="en"><span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">What is wrong</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">in the</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">Facebook?</span><br /><span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">Site</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">is currently closed</span></span><br />facebook Down<br /><span id="result_box" class="short_text" lang="en"><span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">Account is</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">temporarily unavailable</span></span><br /><span id="result_box" class="" lang="en"><span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">Facebook</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">is not likely</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">that much</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">of the</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">visits?</span><br /><span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">Always</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">break down and</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">always</span> <span title="انقر للحصول على ترجمات بديلة" class="hps">have problems</span></span><br /><br /><br /><span class="fullpost"> </span>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-48192697080342496142010-10-23T00:09:00.003+01:002010-10-23T00:11:58.718+01:00Nearly Free iPhone Tripod Adapter<p> </p> <h4>intro Nearly Free iPhone Tripod Adapter</h4> <p>Starting with the 3G, iPhones have had the capability to take videos. There are times when it would be nice to be able to attach the iPhone to a tripod. There are several tripod adapters for the iPhone available. Unfortunately, they are somewhat expensive.<br />Here is a quick and cheap solution. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Nearly Free iPhone Tripod Adapter" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FYRW0DZGDNJ4E56/Nearly-Free-iPhone-Tripod-Adapter.jpg" /> </p><span class="fullpost"><h4>step 1 Materials and Tools</h4> <p><strong>Materials:</strong><br /> 1 - thick wire coat hanger<br /> 1 - 1/4x20 nut<br /> 2 - rubber bands <br /><strong>Tools:</strong><br /> pliers with wire cutter </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Materials and Tools" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F3L2IFVGDNJ4E4X/Materials-and-Tools.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <h4>step 2 Altering the Coat Hanger</h4> <p>Use the wire cutters to remove the bottom and hook portion of the coat hanger. Some coat hangers will start to come apart if you clip the hook portion off. If you think this might happen to you just straighten it out instead of cutting.<br />Bend the long ends of the coat hanger until they form a "U". </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Altering the Coat Hanger" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FZDX9ELGDNJ4E50/Altering-the-Coat-Hanger.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3</h4> <p>Bend the remaining part of the hook (or the whole hook, if you didn't cut) perpendular to the "U". </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FH6H3RQGDNJ4E51/null.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><p> </p><h4>step 4</h4> <p>Place the small open end of the hook portion of the coat hanger over the 1/4 screw that is on the tripod. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FCOG5I7GDNJ4E52/null.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><h4>step 5</h4> <p>Screw the 1/4x20 nut onto the tripod screw. This should lock the coat hanger bracket to the tripod. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FGCI3PAGDNJ4E53/null.jpg" /> </p><h4> </h4> <h4> </h4> <h4> </h4> <h4>step 6</h4> <p>Slip 2 rubber bands around your iPhone. Place them about an inch from the top and bottom. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FHSDKR8GDNJ4E54/null.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><p> </p> <h4>step 7</h4> <p>Stretch the end of the each rubber bands and give them a twist. After they are twisted slip them over the coat hanger wires that make up the "U". </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FONKNTUGDNJ4E55/null.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 8</h4> <p>With the iPhone in position, trim the coat hanger "U". I decided to bend one so that it could be used as a handle.<br />When you are finished, you can remove your iPhone and sand the ends of the wire. I didn't bother. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FJ7EYY7GDNJ4E57/null.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 9 Conclusion</h4> <p>Here is the <strong>nearly free iPhone tripod adapter </strong>in use. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Conclusion" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FYRW0DZGDNJ4E56/Conclusion.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <p>End..</p> <br /></span>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-76948381419533042752010-10-22T23:19:00.002+01:002010-10-23T00:01:07.403+01:00blank bill change<p> </p> <h4>introBlank bill change</h4> <p>A magic trick to make it look like you change a piece of paper into a dollar bill.<br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQLPQZTTMp8">See the trick</a> </p><p> </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="blank bill change" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F7I161WFCEILZZC/blank-bill-change.jpg" /> </p><span class="fullpost"><p> </p> <p><a name="files"></a> </p><p><a name="step1"></a> </p><h4>step 1 Materials needed</h4> <p>You will need<br />-a bill (I used a dollar, but it doesn't matter)<br />-a piece of paper<br />-a pair of scissors<br />-a pencil<br />-scotch tape (double-sided is best, but it doesn't matter) </p><p> </p><p><img alt="Materials needed" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FUQJGC5FCEILZXM/Materials-needed.jpg" /></p> <p><a name="images"></a> </p><p> </p><p> </p> <h4>step 2 Trace your bill</h4> <p>Put it on the edge and trace it, be accurate. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Trace your bill" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FHFA2Y2FCEILZXT/Trace-your-bill.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Cut out the paper</h4> <p>We aren't breeding pandas here, just cut it out. If it isn't exactly the same size and shape of the bill, fix it. Make it fit the bill, no pun intended. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Cut out the paper" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FKERUPUFCEILZYH/Cut-out-the-paper.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Fold and tape</h4> <p>Make sure that they look the same when you tape them. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Fold and tape" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F2JZ2LBFCEILZZF/Fold-and-tape.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <p><img alt="Fold and tape" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F2F/K63F/FCEILZZE/F2FK63FFCEILZZE.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><p><img alt="Fold and tape" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FKR/47ZY/FCEILZZB/FKR47ZYFCEILZZB.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><p><img alt="Fold and tape" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FPT/4JHC/FCEILZZA/FPT4JHCFCEILZZA.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><p><img alt="Fold and tape" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F0N/V8E3/FCEILZZ9/F0NV8E3FCEILZZ9.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><p><img alt="Fold and tape" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F44/COD7/FCEILZZ7/F44COD7FCEILZZ7.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><h4>step 5 Unfold and set it up for the trick</h4> <p>Here you will completely unfold and refold your bill/paper so that it will be trick ready. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Unfold and set it up for the trick" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FVD0PFCFCEILZZ6/Unfold-and-set-it-up-for-the-trick.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <p><img alt="Unfold and set it up for the trick" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F06/N7U8/FCEILZZ4/F06N7U8FCEILZZ4.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><p><img alt="Unfold and set it up for the trick" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F07/PUR7/FCEILZZD/F07PUR7FCEILZZD.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><p><img alt="Unfold and set it up for the trick" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F7I/161W/FCEILZZC/F7I161WFCEILZZC.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p> </p><h4>step 6 Performing the trick</h4> <p>The trick is pretty self explanatory, but here is a video to help anyway.<br /><a href="http://www.metacafe.com/watch/952543/blank_bill_change">The video that is described above</a> </p><br /></span>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-52363109251299538142010-10-22T23:55:00.001+01:002010-10-22T23:55:28.229+01:00Make your iPhone charger hold<p> </p> <h4>intro Make your iPhone charger hold / display your phone</h4> <p>We loved this iPhone hack by Brendan Dawes so much we thought we should share it with Instructables :)<br>It works great for other phones too, I also did one for an old Nokia and a Sony Ericsson, and why not ?! :) <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Make your iPhone charger hold / display your phone" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F49SVP3GBVJBSFV/Make-your-iPhone-charger-hold-display-your-phone.jpg"> <span class="fullpost"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Make your iPhone charger hold / display your phone" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FRJ/NVYF/GC4G0DDG/FRJNVYFGC4G0DDG.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Make your iPhone charger hold / display your phone" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FPB/DVAJ/GC4G8CAH/FPBDVAJGC4G8CAH.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Make your iPhone charger hold / display your phone" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FXW/R1W8/GC4G8CAN/FXWR1W8GC4G8CAN.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 1 What do you need...</h4> <p>your phone<br>the phone charger<br>sugru<br>scissors<br>cling film<br>some soapy water<br>If you are not familiar with sugru, you can find out more on our website - <a href="http://www.sugru.com">www.sugru.com</a> <p> <p><img alt="What do you need..." src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FE0XAP4GBVJBV1D/What-do-you-need.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 2Open the sugru sachet</h4> <p>Cut open the sachet of sugru following the dotted line, this is the best way to remove sugru from the special foil sachet.<br>Knead the sugru in your fingers for half a minute, this helps the material work better.<br>Tear the sugru into 3 pieces; for this hack I needed 2 large ones and a small one.<br>Cover your phone in cling film, this will make sense a little later. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="open the sugru sachet" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FDILDL7GBVJ83MC/open-the-sugru-sachet.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="open the sugru sachet" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZW/A786/GBVJ83MF/FZWA786GBVJ83MF.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="open the sugru sachet" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FHQ/SAZ1/GBVJ83MO/FHQSAZ1GBVJ83MO.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Pop the sugru in place</h4> <p>Press the sugru onto the charger roughly where you need it. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Pop the sugru in place" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FIW76C0GBVJH3AS/Pop-the-sugru-in-place.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Get the shape right</h4> <p>Charging your phone creates heat so it's good to make a little space between the phone and the charger to allow air to circulate.<br>Pop the third piece of sugru onto the top of the charger making sure it sticks out a bit.<br>Once the sugru is in place, it's time to get the shape right.<br>Gently touch the sugru repeatedly to tweak the shape, don't panic, you have plenty of time. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Get the shape right" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F9P3HPLGBVJH3AZ/Get-the-shape-right.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 5 Create the perfect impression</h4> <p>Press your phone gently into the sugru and it will take a perfect impression, creating a snug fit for your phone.<br>1: To help with this process, rub a little soapy water onto the cling film you wrapped around your phone - soapy water works as a release agent for sugru preventing stuff from sticking to it :)<br>2: Gently press the phone into the sugru. Be careful, sugru will still be very soft, so be gentle so as not to deform your brackets too much.<br>After I completed this I realised that this step is not that necessary, so you could skip it if you liked. Take a look at the Sony Ericsson version in step 8 :) <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Create the perfect impression" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F1A234VGBVJ2E80/Create-the-perfect-impression.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 6 Smooth the surface and leave it to cure</h4> <p>One final tip, to create a great smooth surface on sugru, use the soapy water again, just dip your finger into the soapy water and gently rub the surface of the sugru, you will notice that this will remove all your finger impressions giving your hack a slick smooth surface.<br>When you are happy with the shape of your new charging bracket, leave it somewhere to cure overnight.<br>In the morning, you will have a great new charging cradle :) <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Smooth the surface and leave it to cure" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FMX1253GBVJBV4I/Smooth-the-surface-and-leave-it-to-cure.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 7 Same hack for a Nokia phone</h4> <p>Here is the same hack but for my old backup Nokia phone.<br>I tried this one a little differently and really liked it :)<br>In this version I created a sock by pressing the sugru around the phone and it works a treat. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="same hack for a Nokia phone" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FJ7M8QBGBVJ2EAP/same-hack-for-a-Nokia-phone.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="same hack for a Nokia phone" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F3C/5BUA/GBVJ2EBE/F3C5BUAGBVJ2EBE.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> <p><img alt="same hack for a Nokia phone" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9K/XUX6/GC4GCF50/F9KXUX6GC4GCF50.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> <p><img alt="same hack for a Nokia phone" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F5Z/UCOL/GC4GCF57/F5ZUCOLGC4GCF57.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 8 Ooh, and a Sony Ericsson</h4> <p>The Sony Ericsson was a bit more of a challenge as it has a curved front, but not much of a challenge for sugru :)<br>This time I just made simple goat horns, I just played with the form a bit and it works great. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="ooh, and a Sony Ericsson" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F5CTLUHGBVJH3GJ/ooh-and-a-Sony-Ericsson.jpg"> <p> <p>0End… </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-24760120434306269942010-10-22T23:11:00.001+01:002010-10-22T23:11:47.373+01:00Animated Optical Illusion!<p> </p> <p>video Animated Optical Illusion! <p>Learn how to create your own animated optical illusions. Based on the popular book, Magic Moving Images</p> <p> </p> <p> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/SvNjsOl1Ag0?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/SvNjsOl1Ag0?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object></p> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-52327480685373635412010-10-22T22:56:00.001+01:002010-10-22T22:56:33.760+01:00How to repair a zoom telephoto lens and mount it on your DSLR camera<p> <p>Telephoto lenses are expensive and if you have one intended for an older SLR camera, you may consider using it with with your DSLR. My experience is that this is doable but there are a few critical issues that you have to deal with.<br>Contemporary DSLR cameras are rather unfriendly to older lenses for different reasons such as the <strong>lens-sensor distance</strong> , the <strong>mounting mechanism</strong> or even the camera <strong>software</strong>.<br>It is important is to mount the old lens on the camera <strong>at the precise distance</strong> without damaging the internal parts..<br>In this instructable I'll show you how this can be done by a specific example using common tools and materials.<br>I picked this used and damaged telephoto from a street market. It was a zoom 80-200mm F/4.5, ~400gr weight, with the JCPenney (an American multistore) brand on it and the sign "made in Japan" . Even at its own time it would be inferior compared to those made by Yashica, Nikon or Vivitar with similar specifications.<br>It was practically separated in two and full of dust, but the external lenses did not seem to have any scratches. Initially I intended to remove the lenses for other uses but looking at it more carefully I realized that the mechanical problems could be fixed.<br>The challenge was to repair it and mount it on my Olympus E-420. <p> <p><img alt="How to repair a zoom telephoto lens and mount it on your DSLR camera" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F4A/CRKK/GFA455HC/F4ACRKKGFA455HC.MEDIUM.jpg"> <span class="fullpost"><img alt="http://www.instructables.com/image/F3VZ0SYGFA45PZT/How-to-repair-a-zoom-telephoto-lens-and-mount-it-o.jpg" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F3VZ0SYGFA45PZT/How-to-repair-a-zoom-telephoto-lens-and-mount-it-o.jpg"> <p> <p> <h4>step 1 Preliminary steps</h4> <p>Regardless if your lens needs repair or not, this is what you have to do first:<br><strong>Find out the camera-lens distance </strong> <ol> <li>Attach the camera on a tripod and remove its own lens. Holding the telephoto with both hands in front of your camera with the setting of the telephoto at infinity, try to focus a very distant object. If you have a problem to keep the lens to the correct position use a paper inner tube but do not touch the internal parts of your camera. <li>Rotate the focusing ring a few degrees and focus again. In the final construction it is better t<strong>o set the infinite point a few degrees before the rotation limit</strong>. This will allow sharp focusing by leaving some space around the correct point. <li>Focus on close objects. Try to find the minimum focusing distance available. In my case the distance measured was 1.7 meters at 200mm and 1.5 at 80mm. </li></ol><strong>Find/purchase the appropriate adaptor </strong><br>A T-ring is the best type of adaptor for this work. It offers two possibilities for mounting a lens, either by using the M42 threading of the internal ring or by removing the ring and fitting the tube on the main connector directly. The one shown here is the Olympus Four-Thirds T-ring for DSLRs which has a bayonette type mounting. <p><img alt="Preliminary steps" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FTYYS1AGF7BBKZ4/Preliminary-steps.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 2 How a zoom telephoto works</h4> <ul> <li>A zooming system transforms <strong>a parallel beam to another parallel beam of different diameter </strong>depending on its position (afocal operation). </li></ul> <ul> <li>A simple method to visualize this, is to think of the zooming system + the objective lens as a composite "objective". The effective focal distance decreases when the components come closer. </li></ul> <ul> <li>Thus when we approach the zoom to the objective the focal distance decreases (ZOOM OUT) while when we retract the zooming system backwards, it increases (ZOOM IN). In the case of my lens the limits are 80-200mm. </li></ul> <ul> <li>Contemporary lens systems do not have a sliding tube as this one , they work mostly by turning a ring and move the objective lens away from the zooming system. An independent lens system is used for focusing (see the next design in this page). </li></ul> <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="How a zoom telephoto works" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FMW02H9GFA43C58/How-a-zoom-telephoto-works.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="How a zoom telephoto works" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FMI/93CX/GF5VAOHN/FMI93CXGF5VAOHN.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Take it apart ! (if necessary)</h4> <p><strong>Reasons for doing this:</strong> <ol> <li>Repair mechanisms. <li>It was exposed to dust for long and needs Internal cleaning. <li>You want to see how it works. <li>It is fun! </li></ol>All the above were valid in this case. Primarily the objective lens part was separated by the main body. As I found out this happened because the nylon washers connecting the lens to the focusing tube were broken and the tube internally was full of metal dust from bad contact.<br><strong>Caution:</strong><br>I do not recommend taking lenses apart in general. There are systems with 25 optical components , better not touch them. In this case the lens had about 5 optical components and the connecting screws where all 1.5mm and could be manipulated with medium difficulty. <br><strong>How to do it:</strong><br>No violence and avoid coffee. Just use your hands and appropriate screw drivers. Do not force any other kind of tools (knives, pliers, screwdrivers) on the lens body.<br>Start disassembling the most obvious external parts and proceed with care as far as it is needed.<br>In the case described here it was only necessary to separate the three lens systems in order to clean them. However following arguments (3) and (4) I went all the way down.<br>Do everything in a tray in order to avoid searching for 1.5mm screws on the floor.<br>Use gloves and fine tissue paper to handle the lenses.<br>Use toothpicks to align tiny holes on different tubes.<br>If you cannot put it back together don't panic, leave it for another time. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Take it apart ! (if necessary)" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F852WI2GF06MF92/Take-it-apart-if-necessary.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Take it apart ! (if necessary)" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FOH/KNYS/GF06T5HY/FOHKNYSGF06T5HY.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Take it apart ! (if necessary)" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCI/FCQT/GF06T5I2/FCIFCQTGF06T5I2.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Repair work</h4> <p><strong>Sliding mechanism</strong><br>I had to make new nylon washers for two delicate screws that serve as guides to the external focusing/zooming tube. These have dimensions 2.5mm external diameter and 1.5mm internal and thickness 1mm. Fortunately an ink pen filling has a similar size and it fitted nicely. The tolerance was ~0.2mm.<br><strong>Sanding</strong><br>Some parts of the thin metal tubes were rough so they had to be sanded gently on a table with a 200 sand paper.<br><strong>Grease</strong><br>The Objective lens system stayed on a threaded part of the main body and a silicon grease was necessary there. This was done at the final stage of assembly after cleaning and mounting the lenses. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Repair work" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F9QA6UJGF06MFNY/Repair-work.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Repair work" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F6C/XHVB/GF06MF95/F6CXHVBGF06MF95.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 5 The Iris</h4> <p>If the iris is working then fine. In the case discussed here , the iris was in place and it is operational but it was obviously handled by a ring close to the camera which was missing. Although there was a way to do something similar I selected to immobilize the iris in the open position, by placing a plastic tube through an opening in the focusing lens compartment. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="The Iris" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FRCSIP9GF069I9W/The-Iris.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 6 Build a proper mounting for your camera</h4> <ul> <li>The mounting combines the last component of the lens with the T-ring. These are connected by a brass inner ring using 2M and 3M screws. Since the part of the lens is thick enough (2.5mm) I selected to drill holes on thread them for 3M. The screws are placed from inside. <br>The internal diameters of these tubes are not equal , so I used 1mm steel collars to match them.<br>If one has access to a lathe this kind of modification can be done in a better way. I think an inner tube is still the best method to connect the two parts but one could eventually use the M42 thread on the T-ring.<br>The mounting shown here is rigid enough to support the weight of the telephoto (400gr). In fact I trust it more in terms of robustness than I trust the rest of the lens!</li></ul> <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Build a proper mounting for your camera" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F28DT23GFA455I5/Build-a-proper-mounting-for-your-camera.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Build a proper mounting for your camera" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZ9/WKL1/GF5VAOI3/FZ9WKL1GF5VAOI3.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Build a proper mounting for your camera" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F3L/W8XB/GF5UXPOZ/F3LW8XBGF5UXPOZ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Build a proper mounting for your camera" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FPI/R3WH/GF5VAOHW/FPIR3WHGF5VAOHW.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 7 Assembly and focusing range</h4> <p>Before the final assembly I mounted the lens to the camera a few times in order to adjust the correct distance for focusing. <strong>I had to shorten the lens part of the connector by precisly 1.3mm</strong> in order to get a focusing from 1.7m to infinity for the 200mm focal length. I also needed some space for fine focusing at the 200mm limit.<br>Before mounting, all parts were cleaned with alcohol and cotton. I used a special liquid and tissue paper for the lenses.<br>When placed on the camera, the measuring ring was adjusted in order to read the correct distance. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Assembly and focusing range" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FAR50APGFA455IQ/Assembly-and-focusing-range.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Assembly and focusing range" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F4A/CRKK/GFA455HC/F4ACRKKGFA455HC.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 8 Measure the field size and estimate the magnification</h4> <p><strong>Measure the field size </strong> <ul> <li>This can be easily done even indoors. Focus on a surface distant a few meters and shoot. Then measure with a tape the object distance and the length of the surface spanned in the photo. The lens I am describing has a field size of 5<sup>o</sup> x 3.7<sup>o</sup></li></ul> <ul> <li>If you prefer to think of the field size as a distance, in the case of 5<sup>o</sup> , the length spanned when you are focusing on an object at 1000m is 175m. </li></ul> <ul> <li>Another simple method is to shoot the moon , which extends ~0.5<sup>o</sup> and then measure on the photo the relative size of the moon. This was done in the photos shown below. The moon was photographed a cloudy night, rain followed. I wanted to catch the seek and hide of the moon behind the clouds. </li></ul><br><strong>Estimate the magnification</strong> <ul> <li>This term is not very precise for cameras. The "magnification" of a 200mm lens on a DSLR can be estimated taking into account two facts. (a) 1x magnification in a conventional SLR corresponds roughly to 50mm focal length and (b) the sensor length of the DSLR is about 1/2 the 36mm film. Therefore in this case we have 8x magnification. </li></ul> <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Measure the field size and estimate the magnification" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FDMIW9MGFA43CKT/Measure-the-field-size-and-estimate-the-magnificat.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Measure the field size and estimate the magnification" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FUL/XZ2L/GFA43CL7/FULXZ2LGFA43CL7.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Measure the field size and estimate the magnification" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F6H/LK6X/GFDX0J2S/F6HLK6XGFDX0J2S.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 9 Estimate the resolution limit</h4> <p><strong>What the resolution limit is </strong> <ul> <li>Think of a car coming to your direction on the highway with the lights on. When it is far away both lights are merged in one. You need to now what the maximum distance is for the two lights to be separated by an optical instrument (e.g. your eyes). This depends mostly on the size of the objective lens and is usually expressed as an angle. </li></ul><br><strong>Estimate the resolution limit</strong> <ul> <li>.My house in Athens is facing mount Ymittos on the top of which there is a group of telecommunication towers (see photo). The tallest one has two red lights 0.6m apart (measured with a telescope of known field size) while the distance to the tower is 7000m (measured from Google Earth). It is a perfect calibration target! </li></ul> <ul> <li>The resolving power of 0.6/7000 radians expressed in arcsec is ~1<strong>8arcsec</strong>. </li></ul> <ul> <li>The size of one pixel in a 10Mpxl sensor when this lens is used, corresponds to <strong>5 arcsec</strong> and this means that the distance between the lights spans <strong>3.5 pixels</strong>, really a small number. </li></ul> <ul> <li>The theoretical resolution limit for such a lens (44mm diameter) is about <strong>2.5 arcsec</strong> much smaller that what was estimated here. I don't think that this can be reached because there are other factors involved (complexity and quality of the lenses, atmospheric conditions) . </li></ul> <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Estimate the resolution limit" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F5HXJPCGF80DYFM/Estimate-the-resolution-limit.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Estimate the resolution limit" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FRW/JXPI/GF80DYG5/FRWJXPIGF80DYG5.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 10 What you can do with it</h4> <ul> <li>In terms of magnification using this lens you have a viewing field through the camera as that through a set of 8x44 binoculars. Thus it is great for shooting distant objects. The moon is also an interesting target. </li></ul> <ul> <li>Besides long distance a tele-lens is ideal for medium distances e.g. portraits or nature, because of this nice blurring effect on the background. The examples shown here , were all shot at 2-4m. </li></ul> <ul> <li>Overall you can add one valuable piece of equipment in your photo bag with a minimal cost. </li></ul> <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="What you can do with it" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FUOEPGGGF80DYGE/What-you-can-do-with-it.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="What you can do with it" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9O/8HB5/GF80DYHK/F9O8HB5GF80DYHK.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="What you can do with it" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FDB/JH67/GF80DYGO/FDBJH67GF80DYGO.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="What you can do with it" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FO1/IZYV/GF80DYGS/FO1IZYVGF80DYGS.MEDIUM.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-46104447805881518112010-09-28T13:33:00.002+01:002010-09-28T13:34:38.383+01:00The Magic Propeller<h4>intro The Magic Propeller</h4> <p>Introduction:<br />OK, this is a silly one, and I even have to admit you can find a few toys like this on the internet. A site for teachers describes how to make one using a pencil. But I feel entitled posting this Instructable because I can remember when my dad made one for us kids roughly 60 years ago. My brother and I were completely baffled how he would rub a little dowel on a notched stick and the little wooden propeller at the end would start spinning, and then he would say, "stop and go the other way," and without the slightest perceptible change in anything he was doing, the propeller would obey. And of course we would try and try and fail.<br />Naturally there was a trick, and for those who have not seen this toy, I will reveal the trick at the end of this Instructable.<br />You need a few little pieces of scrap wood -- almost any kind will do, and a small brad. <object height="385" width="640"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/JiuLDMvRrpo?fs=1&hl=en_US"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/JiuLDMvRrpo?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="385" width="640"></embed></object>.</p> <span class="fullpost"> <p><img alt="The Magic Propeller" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F5TYCYOGE7L4MPZ/The-Magic-Propeller.jpg" /> </p><p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 1Step One</h4> <p>I used my table saw to rip a piece of pine to about 5/16th inch square, and cut it to about 12 inches in length.<br />Starting about three inches from one end, and continuing to about one inch from the other end, I marked one edge, using pencil, with 1/4 inch intervals.<br />Then, using a small, fairly coarse, square file, I filed notches in one edge.<br />Since folks are going to be rubbing this stick like crazy, it needs a very good sanding including rounding the edges slightly. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Step One" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FNOKIAHGEE03TKT/Step-One.jpg" /> </p><p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Step One" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FOW/XUF2/GEE03SBZ/FOWXUF2GEE03SBZ.MEDIUM.jpg" /> </p><p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 2 Step Two</h4> <p>The propeller is another little piece of wood -- I used a little scrap of maple since it is nice and hard and the hole will likely remain true and clean after drilling. But I bet a little piece of Masonite or Plexiglas would also work fine. Even a soft wood like pine should be OK if you make a nice clean hole and get rid of any little fibers.<br />The one I cut out is a full 1/8 inch thick, and is 2 3/4 inches long X 5/8 inch wide. These dimensions are not critical.<br />It is important to drill the hole in the exact center to prevent the propeller from being out-of-balance. I used a #48 drill from my numbered drill set. I did not measure the drill with a caliper, but it is probably about 1/16th inch in diameter. You should use a larger drill or countersink plus a bit of sandpaper to clean-up the edges of the hole -- it must be nice and clean to allow easy rotation. It is a very loose fit on the brad that attaches the propeller to the notched stick. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Step Two" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FYVA1DIGE7L4MQG/Step-Two.jpg" /> </p><p> </p> <h4>step 3 Step Three</h4> <p>I bet the hardest part of this project is finding the perfect little nail to attach the propeller to the notched stick. In spite of a huge collection of nails and screws in my shop, this little baby was elusive. It is about 3/4 inch long, and very thin.<br />You just drive the nail straight through the hole in the propeller into the end of the notched shaft. Sure, go ahead and try to center the nail on that tiny end, and while you're at it try to get the little devil to go in straight. Good luck! I had to bend mine straight after nailing, but don't tell anyone.<br />For the rubbing stick, I was looking around for a piece of 1/4 inch dowel, but I only found a few scraps of 3/8 inch material. I cut a piece to about six inches long, smoothed-up the ends, and that seems to work fine. </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Step Three" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F6164XMGE7L4MQT/Step-Three.jpg" /> </p><p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Step Four (secret)</h4> <p>OK, here is the big secret. Please do not not ask me to explain why this works. For all I know, it really IS magic. In the photo, please note carefully the positions of the fingers when holding the dowel. When rubbing the stick, the index finger (if you are right handed) will be riding up and down on the left side of the notched shaft. Your middle finger will be riding up and down on the right side of the shaft. When you rub the notched stick, if you continuously hold your middle finger against the edge of the shaft (with no pressure from the index finger), the propeller will rotate to the right. If you hold your index finger against the shaft while rubbing, the propeller rotates to the left. No one sees your tiny shift in position to reverse rotation because it continues to sound the same and they are all watching that ridiculous obedient propeller! Have Fun!! </p><p><a name="images"></a> </p><p><img alt="Step Four (secret)" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F3KSC5LGEE03SCK/Step-Four-secret.jpg" /> </p></span>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-28522308921732223092010-07-21T01:48:00.001+01:002010-07-21T01:48:03.506+01:00Arduino FM radio receiver shield<p>This Instructable will show you how to build your own FM radio receiver shield to be used with an <a href="http://arduino.cc/">Arduino </a>board. The radio chip we are going to be using is the <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8770">AR1010 </a>on a breakoutboard found at <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8770">Sparkfun </a>or <a href="http://bit.ly/d65aWH">Electrokit</a> and there will be code to get you up and running provided later on. We are going to use an laser cutter for the shield fabrication. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Arduino FM radio receiver shield" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FNU1WDGGBUH3PF5/Arduino-FM-radio-receiver-shield.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <span class="fullpost"> <p> </p> <h4>step 1 Eagle 1</h4> <p>First we build up our circuit using eagle. There are many Instructables out there on how to do it such as <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Draw-Electronic-Schematics-with-CadSoft-EAGLE/">this</a> or <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-your-EAGLE-schematic-into-a-PCB/">this</a> . You can download my eagle files I have been using when building this board below. Things to consider is that when you are going to be using the laser cutter for doing pcbs you have to remeber that it is one sided pcbs that is be far easiest and also that the traces has to be 15 mil or wider otherwise the laser and etching process might etch them away. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Eagle 1" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FJJWEFSGBUGUF62/Eagle-1.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 2 Eagle 2 Layout</h4> <p>Once you have your layout done it is time to export it to a more laser friendly format. The first picture below is the finished pcb layout and the second is the schematic of the circuit. To get the nice monochrome laser friendly picture (pic 3 below) you have to export it from eagle as png. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Eagle 2 Layout" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FM94ARSGBUGUF8O/Eagle-2-Layout.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Eagle 2 Layout" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FEW/0P2H/GBUGUF8N/FEW0P2HGBUGUF8N.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Eagle 2 Layout" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FE8/ETYJ/GBUGUF6B/FE8ETYJGBUGUF6B.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Eagle 3 Export</h4> <p>1. Select the layers that you are interest in laser cutting. I tend to only select the top layer and the pads since there resides nearly always all the necessary information. <br>2. Open the export menu<br>3. Select that it is an Image that u want to export<br>4. Select where you want to save it also remember to save it as an monochrome image for the laser to be happy. <br>5. Enjoy the finished png. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Eagle 3 Export" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F38WMAMGBUH9JIL/Eagle-3-Export.jpg"> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p><img alt="Eagle 3 Export" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FU6/9MDF/GBUH9JIJ/FU69MDFGBUH9JIJ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Eagle 3 Export" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCC/AEWW/GBUH3PLA/FCCAEWWGBUH3PLA.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Eagle 3 Export" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F3N/VZQ0/GBUH3PLB/F3NVZQ0GBUH3PLB.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Eagle 3 Export" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGO/ZSZE/GBUGUF7B/FGOZSZEGBUGUF7B.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Spraypaint</h4> <p>Next thing to do is to prepare the <a href="http://bit.ly/crnMsn">copper pcb</a> . This can be found in many sizes and the one I have hear is 160x100x1,6 mm and is pretty standard her in Sweden. <br>1/ Clean the copper from any residues, fingerprints, jelly or whatever has landed on them.<br>2/ Spraypaint the copper with two layers of paint as evenly as possible<br>3/ Let it dry <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Spraypaint" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FCLB8PYGBUGPAJ5/Spraypaint.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Spraypaint" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZG/2DTZ/GBUGPAJ4/FZG2DTZGBUGPAJ4.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Spraypaint" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGV/6BT7/GBUGPAJ3/FGV6BT7GBUGPAJ3.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 5 Laser</h4> <p>Put the exported file into your favorite laser program, in this case Illustrator, and make sure that the size is correct and everything is looking fine. After that it is time to send it to the laser. The settings I use to etch the spraypaint away is the Marble setting on my Epilog 40 w laser. This will change depending on your laser type. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Laser" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FWT4NYKGBUH9JIX/Laser.jpg"> <p><img alt="Laser" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FXI/736B/GBUGPAGW/FXI736BGBUGPAGW.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Laser" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FEP/QSU2/GBUGPAKW/FEPQSU2GBUGPAKW.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 6 Etching</h4> <p>To etch the copper away you use acid that will eat the copper but leave it where there is paint. Create the correct mix with water and acid depending on your supplier. Mine was 0,7 dl acid and 5 dl water. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Etching" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FQNUZCRGBUGUF9U/Etching.jpg"> <p></p> <p><img alt="Etching" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZL/BHDW/GBUH9JIP/FZLBHDWGBUH9JIP.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Etching" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJU/ELJZ/GBUGUF9W/FJUELJZGBUGUF9W.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_kDxe0nOpQN0/TEZDth23cRI/AAAAAAAAACM/WZWf-OmFSzA/s1600-h/image%5B2%5D.png"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="image" border="0" alt="image" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_kDxe0nOpQN0/TEZDwfszbYI/AAAAAAAAACQ/JEbYmcicbjY/image_thumb.png?imgmax=800" width="244" height="163"></a> </p> <p><img alt="Etching" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1I/1SI3/GBUH9JIR/F1I1SI3GBUH9JIR.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Etching" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1H/PB5A/GBUGUF9X/F1HPB5AGBUGUF9X.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Etching" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FOO/1XH6/GBUGPAFW/FOO1XH6GBUGPAFW.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 7 Soldering</h4> <p>When I do Arduino shields I tend to like to put the headers first in an empty Arduino and then the shield on top of that. This aligns them nicely and makes the soldering so much easier. In this step it is just to solder all the components after the pins is in. Remember to align the AR1010 correctly. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Soldering" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FUG9I95GBUGPAN6/Soldering.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Soldering" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FMC/BHHQ/GBUGPANW/FMCBHHQGBUGPANW.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 8</h4> <p>Upload this code from zeropointo found on <a href="http://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=22509">Sparkfuns forum </a>and it should start playing directly. The commands to control the Radio over serial is<br>u = volume up<br>d = volume down<br>n = sudo seek next<br>p = sudo seek prev<br>+ = station increment +2, wrap, filter<br>- = station deincrement -2, wrap, filter<br>[ = station increment no wrap, no wrap, no filter<br>] = station deincrement no wrap, no filter<br>To set the station by frequency type the freq followed by #.<br>Examples:<br>92.1#<br>921#<br>ENJOY! <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FTG7GRNGBUGPAOJ/null.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-10008364863098243532010-07-06T19:14:00.002+01:002010-07-06T19:16:39.591+01:00Cardboard. Foil. Glue: The Solar Funnel Cooker<h4><font color="#ffffff" size="2">intro Cardboard. Foil. Glue: The Solar Funnel Cooker</font></h4> <p>When the temperature hit 100°F this June I knew I had to avoid lighting my propane stove during the day. I have a box-style cardboard solar oven which I've used for years for granola and beans and even a pie now and again. However, it's bulky to haul out just to heat soup for lunch. Research led me to favor building a <a href="http://solarcooking.org/plans/funnel.htm">solar funnel</a> like that designed by BYU's Professor Jones. They're efficient and a lot easier to build than a parabolic reflector. Mine took about two hours to build.<br>Now if I'd had a roll-up car <a href="http://solarcooking.org/plans/windshield-cooker.htm">sunshade</a> (see also wsalazar's <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Cooker/">Solar Cooker</a>) I would've used it and saved myself a few steps. Since I didn't, I fell back on the tried and true cardboard-and-foil approach, using things I had at home. As it turned out, the stiffness of the cardboard makes this cooker very easy to adjust and secure. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Cardboard. Foil. Glue: The Solar Funnel Cooker" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FIK4EA7GB3XJEV6/Cardboard-Foil-Glue-The-Solar-Funnel-Cooker.jpg"> <p></p> <span class="fullpost"> <p><img alt="Cardboard. Foil. Glue: The Solar Funnel Cooker" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FDK/8VYH/GB3XJEPY/FDK8VYHGB3XJEPY.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 1 Materials and Tools</h4> <p>The funnel:<br>2'x4' cardboard;<br>6' 1" of 18" heavy-duty aluminum foil;<br>Water-soluble glue (~3 oz. Elmer's Glue-All);<br>3 or more brass paper fasteners;<br>1 piece ~8" round aluminum sheeting (or a round of cardboard covered with foil);<br>1 bucket or planter;<br>6' string;<br>2 medium-sized binder clips ;<br>Pot Stand:<br>~1 yard of 1" to 1-1/2" wide galvanized sheet roofing;<br>~10" square of 1/4" mesh hardware cloth;<br>1 1" machine screw with nut;<br>Tools:<br>Framing square (handy but optional);<br>Tape measure or ruler or yardstick;<br>Sharp knife or box knife or drywall saw;<br>Pencil;<br>Something round for a template, or a drafting compass;<br>Brush or paper towel or rag;<br>Scissors or nail or icepick;<br>Tin snips;<br>Pliers and screwdriver. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Materials and Tools" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FIRZ20TGB3XJEQD/Materials-and-Tools.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 2 Cut cardboard</h4> <p>Cut a 4' x 2' piece of corrugated cardboard.<br>Figure out how big you want the hole at the bottom of your funnel. No opening at all (so your funnel is actually a cone) could make standing it upright in the bucket difficult, whereas an opening more than six or eight inches across means losing too much reflective area. I used a slightly less than six inch opening, which meant cutting a 12" diameter half-circle out of the cardboard.<br>Center your half-circle by finding the halfway point of one of the 4 foot sides of your cardboard. Draw the half-circle using a compass or a handy template like a five gallon bucket lid.<br>Carefully cut out the half-circle. I used a sharp, narrow-bladed pocket knife, but a box knife or drywall saw will also do the job. Avoid cutting yourself if possible, though sometimes I think a little blood adds soul to a project. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Cut cardboard" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FOELXIYGB3XJEQH/Cut-cardboard.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Apply foil</h4> <p>Cut your foil to length. One 4' length and one 2'1" length will be more than sufficient if you cut the latter in half lengthwise.<br>Dilute water-soluble glue is easy to apply and easy to clean up. It lasts pretty well too, assuming you don't leave your funnel out in all weather. I've tried spray auto trim adhesive and found it doesn't last nearly so well.<br>Mix 1 part glue with 1 part water or less, to make it easier to spread. I used about 3 ounces of Elmer's Glue-All, and perhaps a quarter cup of water. I applied it with a folded paper towel. A brush would be less messy; a rag would work as well. Apply the glue only on the strip of cardboard your current piece of foil will go on.<br>Using clean hands! apply the foil, shiny side up*, on the glued section. Avoid wrinkles. Avoid getting glue on the face of the foil.<br>Now remove the glue you got on the surface of the foil in spite of all your care by using a clean, damp paper towel or rag to wipe it away. Clean the area several times.<br>Trim the extra foil from the edges. If you trim carefully, the extra foil from the semicircle gap can be used to cover a round of scrap cardboard to fill the base of the funnel (see step 6).<br>*There is some experimental <a href="http://solarcooking.org/plans/funneltests01.htm">evidence</a> that a matte aluminum surface actually works better. It is therefore possible that using the less shiny side of the foil would be preferable. I went with tradition this time. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Apply foil" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FZO4VLIGB3XJEQN/Apply-foil.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 4 Shape the funnel</h4> <p>Make a series of radiating folds in your foil-covered cardboard. Do this by placing the straightedge where you want each crease to be. Hold it down with one hand (or hand and forearm) while sliding your other hand beneath the cardboard and pushing gently upwards until it creases.<br>Keep in mind that the point where all these creases should meet is not at the mid-point of the half-circle, but the still theoretical mid-point of the circle you are going to create when you join the sides. (See diagram). In my case this point was about three inches up from my original center point. But approximating this will work fine, so don't sweat it.<br>Gently persuade the cardboard into the shape of a funnel, overlapping the edges by an inch or two.<br>Poke three (or more) holes along this seam, using a nail or icepick or scissors blade or whatever's handy. Put a paper fastener (like a small brass cotter pin with a round head) through each hole and fold the tails outward to join the two sides. Using twine or thin wire such as twist-ties might work just as well. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Shape the funnel" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FTZRMU4GB3XJERZ/Shape-the-funnel.jpg"> <p></p> <p><img alt="Shape the funnel" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F8S/1H0E/GB3XJESQ/F8S1H0EGB3XJESQ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 5 Fill the gap in the funnel base</h4> <p>Unless you plan to use a pot stand that sits down inside your bucket and protrudes up through the hole in your funnel--which I don't recommend--you will want to close off the bottom of your funnel with something reflective. I used a round of scrap aluminum siding, which is always getting blown off my neighbors' trailers. To do this:<br> Use the base of your funnel as a template to draw a circle of the right size on the aluminum sheet, making sure to leave an inch or so of material around the edges of your circle.<br>With your tin snips, cut out a circle of aluminum roughly two inches wider in diameter than the funnel opening. This doesn't need to be a nice neat shape. Mine certainly wasn't.<br>From the edge of your aluminum, make a series of cuts just to the line of the inner circle. Think of this as though you are making petals of a flower with a rather large center. You may want to round off the corners of these petals so they don't stick you.<br>Bend the petals upwards at roughly a 60° angle, working methodically around the circle so that each overlaps the one before.<br>Push this down into the funnel. It should sit there quite happily on its own.<br>If you don't have aluminum sheeting handy, there's no reason why a round of cardboard covered with foil won't work just as well. Just make it big enough that it won't push through the opening. A lightweight aluminum pie plate might also do the trick with no work at all, if your opening is sized to fit it. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Fill the gap in the funnel base" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F3W86WWGB3XJET5/Fill-the-gap-in-the-funnel-base.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 6 Build pot stand</h4> <p>My stand is just a 1 1/2" strap of metal bolted together at a single point to make an 8" diameter circle. Over this goes a piece of 1/4" mesh hardware cloth folded to fit, trimmed so the edges of the hardware cloth don't poke holes in the foil of your funnel--or your fingers. This stand allows a lot of heat to be reflected up onto the bottom of your cooking pot and envelope.<br>If you can find an 8" to 9" diameter wire cake cooling rack, that will work very well also. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Build pot stand" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FMC3DCEGB3XJETI/Build-pot-stand.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 7 Options: the pot and envelope</h4> <p>The cooking vessel most commonly used with a solar funnel seems to be a black-painted Ball jar, which is placed inside a Reynolds oven bag to retain cooking heat. I have a prejudice against both paint and plastic when I'm cooking, so I looked for an alternative. What I ended up with was a clear Pyrex bowl, a clear Pyrex lid which fits pretty well, and a large, dark enamel cup which fits inside the bowl and lid. This has worked quite well for me. I can heat 14 ounces of soup from refrigerator temperature to bubbling in less than an hour on a sunny day.<br>It is possible that the oven bag envelope would heat up quicker, and you may want to go that route. An ordinary supermarket type 2 vegetable bag will serve in a pinch, as long as you can keep it from touching your cooking vessel, the heat of which will promptly melt holes in it. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Options: the pot and envelope" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F5SVKBDGB3XJETX/Options-the-pot-and-envelope.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 8 Cooking: setup and adjustments</h4> <p>Set your bucket (or in my case, planter, found in the local dump) in a sunny spot. preferably out of the wind. If it's breezy, use rocks or chunks of wood around the bottom of the bucket. Something heavy inside the bucket may also help.<br>Place the solar funnel, narrow end down, inside your bucket and aim it at the sun. I find the "horns" of the funnel helpful here. Ideally from one perspective the sun should sit halfway between the horns, and when you move 90° around the funnel, the horns should point a few degrees higher (if it's morning) or lower (if afternoon) than the sun. That way you've got an hour or so before you need to readjust the aim.<br>As breezes are a regular feature of my local weather, I secure my funnel to the bucket. My planter had two rings, one on either side. I tied an approximately yard-long piece of string to each ring. On the other end of the string I tied a mid-sized binder clip. The binder clip clips to the top edge of the funnel, with the string caught so there is no slack. This holds the aim as well, and is easy to readjust when necessary.<br>Assuming you don't have handy rings, wrap a piece of wire around your bucket under the lip, with a loop on either side to which you can tie your string.<br>(This, by the way, is one advantage of using cardboard over a sunshade, which isn't stiff enough to clip securely into place.)<br> Start cooking! <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Cooking: setup and adjustments" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F9HVUN1GB3XJEUA/Cooking-setup-and-adjustments.jpg"> <p><img alt="Cooking: setup and adjustments" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FXF/GVHT/GB3XJEUP/FXFGVHTGB3XJEUP.MEDIUM.jpg"> <br /></span>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-33066548305014821922010-07-01T14:56:00.001+01:002010-07-01T14:56:41.831+01:00Wifi Signal Strainer (WokFi) Long Distance<h4><font color="#ffffff" size="2">intro Wifi Signal Strainer (WokFi) Long Distance</font></h4> <p><strong>In this instructable I make a common WiFi Thumbdrive into a </strong>beefy wifi extender!'<em></em><br>The parabolic <strong>Asian cooking(dumpling) strainer </strong>is the perfect candidate for this project.<br>I was able to pick up <strong>20 more access points</strong> in the city and connect to a network a few blocks away! <br>This is BY-FAR the most simple of all Wifi extensions!<br><strong>Image 2:</strong><br><em>_best paint'job EVER!_ </em>- This is the general Idea behind the parabolic dish.<br>- it should bounce all waves from the dish into the focalpoint (wifi thumbstick).<br><strong><a href="http://danfolkes.com/index.php/wok-fi-kit/">~*~ My Personal Webpage ~*~</a></strong> --- More cool stuff!<br>. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Wifi Signal Strainer (WokFi) Long Distance" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FDJRFZPF0HPZCGH/Wifi-Signal-Strainer-WokFi-Long-Distance.jpg"> <p></p> <span class="fullpost"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Wifi Signal Strainer (WokFi) Long Distance" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9U/6KXE/F0HPZCHY/F9U6KXEF0HPZCHY.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 1 GO GET STUFF!!!</h4> <p><strong>OK, you have to get :</strong><br><strong>a) <em><strong>Cooking strainer <em>from Asian food market.</em> </strong></em></strong><br>- Needs to be PARABOLIC<br>-The wooden handle on mine made it easy to work with.<br>-Cost $7.00<br>-Mesh should be similar "tightness" as pictured. (Don't get the loose mesh)<br><strong>b)</strong> <em>USB Wireless Thumb Drive</em> (g or b/g)<br><strong>c) <em><strong>USB extension. <em>-- The longer the better.(but get as much as you need.)</em> </strong></em></strong> <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="GO GET STUFF!!!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F6WVVUNF0HPZCGB/GO-GET-STUFF.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 2 Prep and Build the Signal Strainer!</h4> <p><strong>Image 1:</strong><br>-Using the snips and cup out a hole JUST big enough for the USB extension cord.<br><strong>Image 2:</strong><br>Squeeze the tip of the USB cord through hole.<br><strong>Image 3:</strong><br>-Adjust everything so the thumbdrive is at the FOCAL POINT of the parabola (I just eyeballed it).<br>-Fasten the USB cord in to place. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Prep and Build the Signal Strainer!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FD1LPH0F0HPZCGI/Prep-and-Build-the-Signal-Strainer.jpg"> <p><img alt="Prep and Build the Signal Strainer!" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FEZ/V2CF/F0HPZCGJ/FEZV2CFF0HPZCGJ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Prep and Build the Signal Strainer!" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F8B/UKM1/F0HPZCGD/F8BUKM1F0HPZCGD.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Testing the Signal Strainer</h4> <p>Testing the <strong>Signal Strainer</strong> :<br><strong>1) <em><strong>Find <em>your favorite access point!</em> </strong></em></strong><br><strong>2) <em><strong>get as far away <em>as possible! (While keeping line-of-sight)</em> </strong></em></strong><br><strong>3) <em><strong>Use software<em> like NetStumbler to see the signal strength.</em> </strong></em></strong><br><strong>4)</strong> <em>Adjust </em>your Signal Strainer where necessary. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Testing the Signal Strainer" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FE0O4H6F0HPZCGA/Testing-the-Signal-Strainer.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-22081284605891344882010-06-28T00:41:00.001+01:002010-06-28T00:41:14.234+01:00How to Make Fireworks<h4><font color="#ffffff">intro How to Make Fireworks</font></h4> <p>There are many types of fireworks, where one of the most common in firework displays is the aerial shell. The aerial shell is used in fireworks displays, and can be either a round or a cylindrical shape. These aerial shells are loaded into tubes, called "mortars." Once lit, the aerial shell will fly into the air and once the aerial shell is at the higest point (apogee), it will explode and shoot pyrotechnic stars in all directions.<br>In this instructable I will be talking about the procedure of assembling a round aerial shell.<br>Note: I do <strong>NOT</strong> recommend the average person to try this! This will be illegal to do without licensence in many cases, it is on your own response wether you do this legally or not.<br>When working with fireworks it is very important to use proper safety gear while making. It is recommended to wear faceshield or safety goggles during the making. While making the shell, one should do it away from heat souces, such as candles, cigarettes, stoves etc.<br>If I somehow throw around with a lot of foreign words or have any questions, feel free to ask me.<br>First, let's see what a typical round aerial shell looks like: <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="How to Make Fireworks" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FSRP4MTF68BAFLR/How-to-Make-Fireworks.jpg"> <span class="fullpost"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="How to Make Fireworks" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FP2/JW9I/F6B7W93D/FP2JW9IF6B7W93D.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="How to Make Fireworks" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIF/XWGU/F68BAFJY/FIFXWGUF68BAFJY.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 1 Shell parts</h4> <p>Let's start making the aerial shell (from now on it will be mentioned as 'shell')<br><strong>Shell hemispheres</strong><br>You will need two 3" paper hemispheres to make this shell. Note that the hemispheres themself are actually not 3", but smaller, since there must be room for pasting and quick match to make the shell fit in the 3" mortar tube.<br><strong>Stars</strong><br>A batch of 75 grams of 10 mm pumped "Tiger tail" stars were made for this shell, however only 70 grams were used. Remember always to make more than you need. It's better to have a bit more, than be needing. The stars were primed in meal black powder to ensure ignition. Since Tiger tail stars ignite easy, you might find that this might be unnecessary. If a 'rising comet' is desired, a 20 mm or 3/4" comet is pumped with the compostion. Make sure that the comet has a burn time equal to the time fuse or spolette (3 seconds).<br><em>Tiger tail stars:</em><br>Potassium nitrate..................44<br>Charcoal (Pine airfloat)........44<br>Sulphur....................................6<br>SGRS or Dextrin.....................6<br>Chemicals can be obtained at:<br><a href="http://www.skylighter.com">Skylighter.com</a><br><strong>Bursting charge</strong><br>'Meal coated rice hulls' was used in this shell.<br><strong>Time fuse</strong><br>A 'spolette' is a small tube, where black powder is confined in it. This will act as a time fuse, however one can also buy time fuse from such sites as:<br><a href="http://www.skylighter.com">Skylighter.com</a><br><strong>Pasting</strong><br>30-40 lbs kraft paper in ~70x15 mm strips are used for pasting the shell using the 3-strip pasting method. If another pasting method is desired, the strips might have to be longer or wider. A glue is needed to paste the strips to the shell. Wheat paste is a cheap solution that works well.<br>Find out how to make it at a tutorial I made:<br><a href="http://www.pyroguide.com/index.php?title=Wheat_paste">Wheat paste tutorial</a><br>Wood glue thinned with water can be used, however it is much more expensive.<br><strong>Lift charge</strong><br>A lift charge is needed to shoot the shell out of the mortar. Approximately 15 grams of good granulated or corned black powder works well. More or less might be used depending on the quality.<br><strong>Ignition</strong><br>For igniting the shell either a piece of visco fuse and quick match or shoothing-wire and an e-match can be used. In this tutorial a piece of shooting wire and e-match was used. Note with this way you will need a power supply, and that you can not light the shell with a lighter<br><strong>Other</strong><br>You will also need lifting cup, paper tape, scissors, drill, "gummed paper tape" or kraft paper, tissue paper, brush, hot melt glue gun, cotton twine and string. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Shell parts" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FJ2X0X0F68BAFKE/Shell-parts.jpg"> <p> <p><img alt="Shell parts" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FRI/KH7V/F68BAFKR/FRIKH7VF68BAFKR.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Shell parts" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FC5/DGG9/F68BAFM8/FC5DGG9F68BAFM8.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 2 Shell Construction</h4> <p>Start by drilling a hole in the pole of one of the paper hemispheres. The diameter of the hole must be the same as the diameter of the time fuse or spolette. Insert the time fuse or spolette about half way in the hole, and hot glue it on both sides. Make absolutely sure that there are no air holes, this will likely result in a <a href="http://www.pyroguide.com/index.php?title=Flower_pot">flower pot</a> .<br>Place each hemisphere on a stand, which can simply be made out of an empty toilet roll cut in half. This will prevent the hemispheres from rolling around when you are filling them. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Shell Construction" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FR7ZTQGF68BAFLH/Shell-Construction.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Shell Construction" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F2M/4Y4A/F68BAFLJ/F2M4Y4AF68BAFLJ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Filling with stars/burst and closing</h4> <p>Arrange the stars around the wall of the hemispheres to the rim. The stars should be sticking a bit over the rim. If the shell is underfilled it will result in a visible area of no stars when the shell is launched. <br>Next cut two pieces of tissue paper, one of them with a hole to go over the time fuse or spolette. Put the pieces in each hemispheres against the stars and fill tighly with burst charge to the rim. A bit of "booster", such as whistle mix or flash powder is added in the center of each hemisphere and spread loosely in the burst charge with fingers. Not much should be used, maximum 1g. <br>Quickly snap the two shell hemispheres together. This is not as hard as it sounds like, but if done too slowly, the stars or burst charge might rearrange or fall out, and the previous steps will need to be repeated. If the rim each paper hemisphere touch eachother at this point, the shell is underfilled. However if done correctly there should be a small gap of around 1 cm at equator. Place the shell on the stand time fuse-side down, and use a wooden dowel to gently hit the upper hemisphere on different places. The stars will then arrange inside the shell and hopefully the two hemispheres will reach eachother. Seal up around the equator with masking tape to close the shell temporarily. Also put a piece of masking tape around the end of the time fuse or spolette to protect it from being damaged during the next steps. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Filling with stars/burst and closing" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F98YJPKF68BAFMT/Filling-with-starsburst-and-closing.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Filling with stars/burst and closing" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F62/ZVVC/F68BAFMU/F62ZVVCF68BAFMU.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Pasting the shell</h4> <p>The next step is pasting the shell, which is the hardest and most time-consuming part of round shells. The pasting method descriped here is the socalled 3-strip pasting method. Unlike the "normal" pasting method (pasting strips with a length of half the equator around the shell) the 3-strip pasting method does not "build up" near poles.<br>To make your pasting strips sticky before you paste you will need to add a glue to each 70x15 mm kraft paper strip on one side. This can be done quickly by arranging some strips on a wide wooden board. Next apply a thin, even layer of wheat paste with a brush. These strips are now ready for pasting, but you will need to repeat this step many times, since you will need a lot of strips to complete your shell.<br>The shell is pasted as showed on the picture. A strip is pasted from the "northpole" pointing towards the "southpole". Then a strip beside is pasted from the "southpole" pointing towards the "northpole". A strip is then pasted between these two strip. This pattern is continuously pasted around the shell. Press out the airbubbles under the strips, this will result in a nice-looking shell. Everytime you finish a way around the shell (layer) make sure to write on the shell how many layers you have pasted so far, you might forget it. When finished pasting the shell, multiply the layer-number by two, since each layer with this pasting method counts for two actual layers. <br>While pasting the shell, cut a ~8 cm piece of cotton twine and make a loop on it. Hot glue it to the top of the shell (the opposite hemispheres of the one with the time fuse in it) and paste like before, just making the strip covering the twine. This shell needed 10 layers of pasting (=20 layers) to complete. The ideal is to make the shell ~5 mm smaller than the mortar tube, in this case the OD of the shell should be ~7 cm. Making it this diameter might take hours for beginners to complete. After the layers of pasting, let the shell dry completely. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Pasting the shell" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F9JED28F68BAFNA/Pasting-the-shell.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Pasting the shell" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJR/1Z4N/F68BAFNC/FJR1Z4NF68BAFNC.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Pasting the shell" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FHR/Y4T2/F68BAFND/FHRY4T2F68BAFND.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 5 Lifting charge</h4> <p>Peel of the making tape that protected the time fuse. Cut two lengths of black match and bend them over the exposed end of the time fuse. Wrap a line of string numerous of time around the black match to secure them to the time fuse. Then either secure the string with a dot of hot glue or tie a knot. <br>The black match will be a prime for the time fuse and make it easier to ignite. Without it the time fuse might fail to ignite and make it a dud shell. <br>The next step is the lift. Take your desired lifting cup and poke a hole in the bottom, big enough to put the quick match or shooting wire through. The quick match or shooting wire should be long enough, so that when the shell is loaded in the mortar, there will stick a bit out of the mortar. If you use quick match insert a piece of visco fuse it. This will be the delay between when the shell is ignited, till it shoots out of the mortar. <br>Next put the quick match (not the visco fuse end) or shooting wire through the hole punched in the lifting cup. If using quick match, tear a bit of the paper off the end, so that the black match will be exposed. If using shooting wire, attatch your e-match. Next slide the quick match or shooting wire back, so it centres in the middle of the lifting cup. Secure the hole with a bit of hot glue or gummed paper. <br>Add you lift charge in the lifting cup, in this example 15.3 grams of pulverone was used. The amount used all depends on the quality of your black powder. The rule of thumb is to use approximately 1/10 lift of the shells weight. The shell's final weight (everything included) was around 150 grams. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Lifting charge" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FAEQMCJF68BAFNW/Lifting-charge.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Lifting charge" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FE2/RWW1/F68BAFNX/FE2RWW1F68BAFNX.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Lifting charge" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCB/JGSK/F68BAFNZ/FCBJGSKF68BAFNZ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 6 Almost done...</h4> <p>Attach the lifting cup to the shell. The time fuse should be pointed directly down the lifting cup and the quick match or shooting wire should be put inside the loop on the top of the shell. Add a line of hot glue around to secure the lifting cup. <br>Cut either a strip of gummed paper or kraft paper. The strip should be long enough to fit all the way around the lifting cup plus a little more. Cut the strip halfway all the way down with a distance of ~1" as shown on the picture. If you're using gummed paper activate it with water, if using kraft paper, brush with layer of wheat paste. <br>Wrap the uncut part around the lifting cup and the cut part around the shell as shown on the picture. Again, make everything as tight as possible. <br>If you want to add a rising comet to your shell, attach it the same way as the lifting cup was attached: Cutted-up strip with glue and hot glue. About 2 mm of the comet should be exposed to ensure ignition. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Almost done..." src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F3YJ8SDF68BAFOJ/Almost-done.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Almost done..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F4A/4RK5/F68BAFOK/F4A4RK5F68BAFOK.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Almost done..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCJ/ZL7X/F68BAFOL/FCJZL7XF68BAFOL.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Almost done..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FSX/4W6U/F68BAFOW/FSX4W6UF68BAFOW.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 7Finished aerial shell</h4> <p>The shell is now finished. It is a good idea to attach label in case you keep the shell over a longer time, so you will know what type of shell it is, which stars, amount of lift etc.<br>The shell can now be fired, but please note that this is obiously <em>the</em> most dangerous part of it all, so proper safety gear must be used.<br>First of all your eyes, fingers and ears are the most important thing to protect.<br>Wear <strong>safety goggles/face shield</strong> , <strong>fireproof gloves</strong> and <strong>ear plugs/earmuffs</strong> during firing (as a minimum!)<br>When firing, you can either use a mortar stand to hold your mortar tube if you have one, or you can bury the mortar tube in the ground about 2/3. Next the shell is loaded to the tube with the quick match or shooting wire sticking out - the shell should fall freely, without any help to make it reach the bottom. Also please take care of your surroundings: The shell should be fired a long distance away from people, houses and flammable objects. Run a good long distance after igniting the fuse. If you want to film the shell, it is recommended to be at least two persons: one will be filming, the other will ignite the fuse.<br>If the shell should somehow fail to lift properly and explode on the ground, you will be glad you did wear safety gear.<br>Sometimes a "flower pot" happens (mainly if the shell is not sealed well around the time fuse, or if the spolette is not rammed solid enough), which is simply the shell explodes in the mortar, shooting stars into the sky. The mortar may or may not fracture when this happens, but this is where burying the mortar comes in handy: the surroundings of the mortar will arbsorb most of the shock, and the fragments may not fly very far.<br>The shell was fired in front of a small audience (consisting of my family) I excuse the annoying voices/laughs/whatever.<br>Hope you enjoyed this instructable, which is my first one.<br>To find out more about pyrotechnics go to:<br><a href="http://www.pyroguide.com">PyroGuide.com</a><br>-pudidotdk <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Finished aerial shell" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FABD9FDF68BAFP6/Finished-aerial-shell.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Finished aerial shell" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FSB/39CQ/FIQAL56P/FSB39CQFIQAL56P.MEDIUM.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-40238707245099226432010-06-23T14:15:00.001+01:002010-06-23T14:16:07.035+01:00iPhone 4 Teardown<h5>Step 1 — iPhone 4 Teardown </h5> <ul> <li> <p>The world's most wanted device is now in the hands of the world's most foremost tinkerers!</p> <li> <p>The all-new iPhone 4 features upgrades from the 3GS including: <ul> <li> <p>A redesigned glass & stainless steel body that shaves 3.5 mm off the width and is 3 mm thinner than the 3GS.</p> <li> <p>Choice of black or white coloring</p> <li> <p>Retina display featuring twice the pixel density of the 3GS</p> <li> <p><a href="http://www.apple.com/iphone/softwareupdate/">iOS 4</a> for multi-tasking</p> <li> <p>5 MP, 720p capturing rear-facing and VGA front-facing cameras</p></li></ul><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/kUEKB6Y2Ah5OIfAh.medium"></li></ul> <span class="fullpost"> <h5>Step 2</h5> <ul> <li> <p>The iPhone 4's design is a dramatic departure from the <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone-1st-Generation-Teardown/599/#s3147">aluminum</a> and <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone-3G-Teardown/600/#s3195">plastic</a> drenched days that have plagued the iPhone in the past.</p> <li> <p>The rugged stainless steel bezels around the iPhone 4's perimeter double as both structural supports and antennas to boost reception.</p></li> <ul> <li> <p>Only time will tell if they absorb shock as poorly as the <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/blog/2009/04/iphone-3g-front-panel-replacement/">iPhone 3GS</a>.</p></li></ul> <li><a></a></li></ul><img alt="first image" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/Yfisg2cRGZla5gqm.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 3</h5> <ul> <li> <p>An iPhone first: Interestingly enough, the storage capacity is not etched on the outer case of the iPhone 4.</p> <li> <p>We'd expect our 32 GB iPhone 4 to fulfill its promise and give us, well, 32 GB. Unfortunately it has an actual capacity of 29.06 GB. <ul> <li> <p>Given the fact that 301 MB of "other" data is being stored in memory, this leaves the user with <strong>28.77 GB</strong> of free space.</p></li></ul> <li> <p>In terms of OS, the iPhone 4 comes preinstalled with the newly released iPhone OS 4, build 8A293.</p> <li> <p>The iPhone 4 is Model A1332. Interestingly, that's a lower number than the <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPad-3G-Teardown/2374/1">A1337 iPad 3G</a>.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p><img alt="first image" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/UjQ2BsHXWX6tirvx.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 4</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Like the iPhone 3G and 3GS, there are two silver <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Phillips-00-Screwdriver/IF145-006">Phillips #00</a> screws at the bottom of the phone.</p> <li> <p>In a departure from the design of the 3G and 3GS, removing the screws releases the rear case, not the front glass.</p> <li> <p>This design makes replacing the rear panel trivial, but unfortunately means that replacing the front glass will likely be rather challenging.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/HABnuQXiEXUtxmXR.medium"></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 5</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Removing rear panel gives us a pretty good look at the iPhone 4's innards.</p> <li> <p>Holy battery! The inside of this thing is dominated by its juice-provider.</p> <li> <p>It's pretty apparent that real estate was very limited inside the iPhone 4's 115.2 x 58.6 x 9.3 mm footprint.</p> <li> <p>You can also see the antenna's pressure contact on the inner face of the rear panel.</p></li></ul> <p> </p><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/PtIlxiTtZvShThIL.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 6</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Luckily, the battery can be easily removed once the back panel assembly is out of the way.</p> <li> <p>The 3.7V 1420 mAh Li-Polymer battery allows for up to 7 hours of talk time on 3G or up to 14 hours on 2G.</p> <li> <p>The battery connector is different than the one in the 3G and 3GS. Fortunately, the battery is not soldered to the logic board.</p> <li> <p>The plastic pull tab for the battery says "Authorized Service Provider Only."</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p><img alt="standard image 2" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/y1RInG6BsFCuADov.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 7</h5> <ul> <li> <p>No EMI shield will stand between us and the innards of this iPhone 4!</p> <li> <p>The EMI shield comes off after four screws are removed to reveal lots of important connectors.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/mCYl5bKTyeR6fFjU.medium"></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 8</h5> <ul> <li> <p>The logic board is heavily embedded under wires and EMI shields.</p> <li> <p>While we're not too busy, let's talk RAM. Unlike the iPhone 3GS and iPad, who are both equipped with 256 MB, the iPhone 4 has a whopping 512 MB!</p> <li> <p>The increase in RAM allows for a larger amount of cached data allowing for a smoother and faster user experience.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/qAvU2dCNFxSRabmm.medium"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h5>Step 9</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Hiding in the corner is the iPhone 4's vibrator motor, which...well...vibrates.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="standard image 2" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/5WndMINR4RDGWEta.medium"></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 10</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Removing one of the many connectors on the logic board.</p> <li> <p>In our brief usage, we did notice that the phone is considerably warmer on the right side. This makes sense, as the logic board is located entirely along the right side of the phone.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="first image" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/AhMYpVQZs4HfRJaG.medium"></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 11</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Behold a beauty in the iPhone 4: a rear-facing 5 MP camera with 720p video at 30 FPS, tap to focus feature, and LED flash.</p> <li> <p>This is a huge upgrade from the 3.2 MP camera found in the iPhone 3GS.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/YJLZ65WWLGtCugsU.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 12</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Removing the lower antenna/speaker enclosure from the bottom of the phone.</p> <li> <p>The improved audio chamber aids in clarifying sounds leaving the iPhone, including calls via speakerphone as well as music played through the speaker inside this housing.</p> <li> <p>Apple hasn't made taking the iPhone 4 apart very hard so far: no 5-point Torx bits or fragile clips to be seen.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="standard image 2" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/5pCNUTKIUwsjNipX.medium"></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 13</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Removing the logic board.</p> <li> <p>The unusual shape and small size of the logic board shows just how costly real estate is inside this powerhouse of a phone.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p><img alt="first image" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/4LvvhPsqKcwvkRE5.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 14</h5> <ul> <li> <p>In what can only be described as a work of genius, Apple has integrated the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Mobile_Telecommunications_System">UMTS</a>, GSM, GPS, Wi-Fi, and Bluetooth antennas into the stainless steel inner frame.</p> <li> <p>The dual purpose stainless steel inner frame/antenna assembly addresses possibly the two biggest flaws concerning previous iterations of the iPhone: continuous dropped calls and lack of reception.</p> <li> <p>Apple has gone a step further and tuned the phone to utilize whichever network band is less congested or has the least interference for the best signal quality, regardless of the actual signal strength. Early reports suggest this feature, while buggy in its early stages, will greatly improve the phone's reliability on AT&T's fragile network.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="first image" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/uSvaGasZUBorLXIC.medium"></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 15</h5> <ul> <li> <p>With the EMI shields off, we can get a look at what makes this beast roar.</p> <li> <p>Lurking deep within the phone, the <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Apple-A4-Teardown/2204/1">A4 processor</a>, manufactured by Samsung, is the centralized unit that provides the iPhone 4 with the much needed computing power.</p> <li> <p>Replacing the Samsung S5PC100 ARM A8 600 MHz CPU used in the 3GS, the new iPhone uses the 1 GHz ARM Cortex A8 core, much like its bigger sibling, the <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPad-Wi-Fi-Teardown/2183/1">iPad</a>.</p> <li> <p>The new Samsung Wave S8500 smartphone <a href="http://www.techeye.net/chips/samsung-wave-s8500-has-same-processor-as-ipad">uses the same Cortex A8 core</a>!</p> <li> <p>Just to the left of the A4 package, the AGD1 is the new 3 axis gyroscope that we believe is designed and manufactured by ST Micro for Apple. The package marks on this device do not appear to be the currently available commercial part, L3G4200D. The commercial version of this gyroscope is yet to be released — Apple got first dibs on it.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="first image" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/IP1qEpYFQSSqwSbg.medium"></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 16</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Top of logic board:</p></li> <ul> <li> <p>Skyworks SKY77542 Tx–Rx iPAC™ FEM for Dual-Band GSM/GPRS: 880–915 MHz and 1710–1785 MHz bands.</p> <li> <p>Skyworks SKY77541 GSM/GRPS Front End Module</p> <li> <p>STMicro STM33DH 3-axis accelerometer</p> <li> <p>TriQuint TQM676091</p> <li> <p>338S0626</p></li></ul><img alt="first image" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/bcyADUdS4POsCRRe.medium"></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <h5> </h5> <h5>Step 17</h5> <ul> <li> <p>On the back:</p></li> <ul> <li> <p>Samsung K9PFG08 flash memory</p> <li> <p>Cirrus Logic 338S0589 audio codec (Apple branded). This is the same part as in the iPad.</p> <li> <p>AKM8975 - newest magnetic sensor that promises to improve the performance over the prior generation.</p> <li> <p>Texas Instruments 343S0499 Touch Screen Controller</p> <li> <p>36MY1EE Numonyx NOR and mobile DDR</p></li></ul></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="first image" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/4uCC4kw4TneMNQRF.medium"></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 18</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and GPS are all provided by Broadcom and located beneath EMI shields on the front side of the board.</p> <li> <p><a href="http://www.broadcom.com/products/Bluetooth/Bluetooth-RF-Silicon-and-Software-Solutions/BCM4329">Broadcom BCM4329FKUBG</a> 802.11n with Bluetooth 2.1 + EDR and FM receiver.</p> <li> <p><a href="http://www.broadcom.com/products/GPS/GPS-Silicon-Solutions/BCM4750">Broadcom BCM4750IUB8</a> single-chip GPS receiver.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/PyIElNJPDwGKCiou.medium"></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 19</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Up next we find the second microphone, which is used to cut out ambient noise and improve sound quality when talking on the phone</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="standard image 2" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/TjeSP4lKeUYPIKam.medium"></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 20</h5> <ul> <li> <p>The front-facing VGA camera.</p> <li> <p>While the 5 megapixel camera on the rear of the iPhone 4 is ideal for video recording, the smaller camera on the front optimizes use of Apple's <a href="http://www.apple.com/iphone/features/facetime.html">FaceTime</a> for mobile-to-mobile video calls.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="first image" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/EwxLvQaRQQACkXjA.medium"></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 21</h5> <ul> <li> <p>The front panel comes off without too much additional trouble.</p> <li> <p>The stainless steel body left behind is quite a marvel of gadget engineering.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/AoRxHZZYJ6YAQOBo.medium"></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <p> </p> <h5>Step 22</h5> <ul> <li> <p>The front glass panel of the iPhone is constructed of Corning <a href="http://www.corning.com/gorillaglass/index.aspx">Gorilla Glass</a>, a chemically strengthened alkali-aluminosilicate thin sheet glass that is reported to be 20 times stiffer and 30 times harder than plastic.</p> <li> <p><a href="http://www.corning.com/uploadedFiles/Corporate/Gorilla_Glass/Assets/Video/Gorilla%20Glass_300k.wmv">Gorilla Glass</a> holds many advantages as the iPhone 4's front panel including its high resistance to wear and increased strength from an ion-exchange chemical strengthening process.</p> <li> <p>LED Backlight for the LCD.</p> <li> <p>Unfortunately, the LCD panel is very securely glued to the glass and digitizer. It appears that if you break the glass, you'll have to replace the glass, digitizer, and LCD as a single assembly.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p> <ul><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/lFOBEnXBbWniZWR5.medium"></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <ul></ul> <h5>Step 23</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Surprisingly, the electronic home button switch is attached directly to the home button itself.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/LEUdIh3LJhgjQuCD.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 24</h5> <ul> <li> <p>The 30-pin dock connector is where we would usually expect it to be: at the bottom of the iPhone.</p> <li> <p>The primary microphone is also found at the bottom of the phone</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p><img alt="standard image 1" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/uqZjXXmPiqe5XZCV.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 25</h5> <ul> <li> <p>Apple is following in the footsteps of the Nexus One by using dual microphones to help improve audio quality and suppress background noise.</p> <li> <p>Interestingly, the two microphones are positioned at the two far ends of the phone. The microphone at the top of the iPhone is most likely utilized for capturing background noise to be analyzed by internal circuitry and used to cancel any noise put into the main microphone other than the user's voice.</p><a></a></li></ul><img alt="first image" src="http://s2.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/nTYQDUmkaESEGZVT.medium"> <p> </p> <h5>Step 26</h5> <ul> <li> <p>As always, we provide each device with a fitting final layout shot that it so greatly deserves.</p> <li> <p>We would like to thank you for joining us tonight during this monumental endeavor.</p></li></ul> <p><a></a> </p><img alt="first image" src="http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/WARyUnA2lknP3XOt.medium"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-7429357688223939802010-06-22T21:18:00.001+01:002010-06-22T21:20:18.565+01:00unboxing of the iPhone 4<h4> </h4> <h4><font color="#ffffff" size="2">In the previous post you could see how some users were receiving iPhone even ahead of schedule and now we have the first unboxing of iphone 4.</font></h4> <p> </p> <h4><img alt="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Unboxing-6.jpg" src="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Unboxing-6.jpg"></h4> <p> </p><span class="fullpost"> <h4> </h4> <h4><img alt="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119325466.jpg" src="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119325466.jpg"></h4> <h4> <img alt="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119341760.jpg" src="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119341760.jpg"></h4> <p> </p> <p><img alt="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119342429.jpg" src="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119342429.jpg"></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119345526.jpg" src="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119345526.jpg"></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119347024-ad67aec35f1b68a33c6d32e7b5fa4c64.4c210f38-full.jpg" src="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/119347024-ad67aec35f1b68a33c6d32e7b5fa4c64.4c210f38-full.jpg"></p> <p><img alt="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Unboxing-7.jpg" src="http://actualidadiphone.abinternetnetwor.netdna-cdn.com//wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Unboxing-7.jpg"></p> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-18292281238332818682010-06-21T12:39:00.001+01:002010-06-21T12:40:32.824+01:00iphone Windows Live Messenger<p>iphone </p> <h3>Windows Live Messenger</h3> <p>Windows Live Messenger for iPhone and iPod Touch is the best way to connect with the people that matter most and keep up with the things they are doing across the web. Use your iPhone to instant message your friends list, view and comment on your friends’ photos and status updates from Windows Live, Facebook, and MySpace, and at a glance, see what your Messenger friends are sharing from Flickr, YouTube, and many other social and photo sharing sites. Make sure to visit http://profile.live.com/Services today and setup Windows Live to bring in your social networks. Messenger is simply the best way to connect with your closest friends.</p> <h4>iPhone Screenshots</h4><a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/windows-live-messenger/id376196406?mt=8#"></a> <p><img alt="iPhone Screenshot 1" src="http://a1.phobos.apple.com/us/r30/Purple/be/8a/b1/mzl.yynxyawq.320x480-75.jpg"> <p><span class="fullpost"> <p><img alt="iPhone Screenshot 2" src="http://a1.phobos.apple.com/us/r30/Purple/6a/f8/32/mzl.kluyivry.320x480-75.jpg"> <p>Free</p> <p><a title="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/windows-live-messenger/id376196406?mt=8" href="http://itunes.apple.com/en/app/windows-live-messenger/id376196406?mt=8">http://itunes.apple.com/en/app/windows-live-messenger/id376196406?mt=8</a></p> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-19207301852284414012010-06-19T13:02:00.001+01:002010-06-19T13:02:29.938+01:00$5 Mini USB Fridge!<p>Now that we're seeing those 12 volt camper coolers turning up at garage sales and thrift stores (I found one for $2.50), here's a neat little idea for turning it into a customizable mini-fridge powered by a USB port! <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="$5 Mini USB Fridge!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FG61UQHF9AZJTBH/5-Mini-USB-Fridge.jpg"> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p><span class="fullpost"><embed src="http://www.metacafe.com/fplayer/944184/diy_5_mini_usb_fridge.swf" width="400" height="345" wmode="transparent" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" name="Metacafe_944184"> </embed><br><font size="1"><a href="http://www.metacafe.com/watch/944184/diy_5_mini_usb_fridge/">DIY $5 Mini USB Fridge!</a> - <a href="http://www.metacafe.com/">The best video clips are here</a></font> <p> </p> <h4>step 1 Taking out the Peltier/Heatsink Unit</h4> <p>You'll basically just need a phillips head screwdriver and thin socket or needlenose pliers to take apart the heatsink and fans, which will allow you to remove the unit from the cooler. Now, you might ask why you'd want to do this and not just use the cooler. The answer is because most of the time when you find one of these the case will be cracked and the cord is missing, but that's not a problem... <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Taking out the Peltier/Heatsink Unit" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FX18Y5XF9AZJTBM/Taking-out-the-PeltierHeatsink-Unit.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Taking out the Peltier/Heatsink Unit" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FAE/FD7Y/F9AZJTBL/FAEFD7YF9AZJTBL.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 2 The Peltier unit and Clean Up</h4> <p>Sandwiched in between the heatsinks, you'll find the Peltier unit, which loks about the same size and thickness as a computer CPU. In between the top and bottom layer, you'll see the special substrates that have the unique properties that make the Peltier unit cool on one side while heating the other when an electrical current is applied. There will, in some cases, be spray foam insulation in between the two heatsinks, which is very easily broken away with just your fingers. You can safely remove the peltier unit from the other heatsink, as it will be held only by thermal compound. Once you've cleaned up the top and bottom heatsinks, place the peltier back in between the two heatsinks and retighten the bolts. If you have any thermal paste left over from putting together your own PC, you can optionally clean the old paste away and reapply new paste to each heatsink just as you would on a CPU heatsink/fan assembly before attaching it to a CPU. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="The Peltier unit and Clean Up" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F7I3CUMF9AZJTBK/The-Peltier-unit-and-Clean-Up.jpg"> <p><img alt="The Peltier unit and Clean Up" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FNC/27RM/F9AZJTBJ/FNC27RMF9AZJTBJ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Attch a USB Cable</h4> <p>Peltier units are designed to operate at a voltage between 3-12 volts, and the 5 volts from your USB port work just fine. Although the amperage could ideally be higher, the 500 mw output is acceptable. Cut away the end of an old USB cable (or pick up a cheapy) and strip back a couple of inches of the plastic covering. Inside you will find 4 wires, usually within a braided or thin aluminum shield. The wire colors will be white, green, red, and black. Trim back the white and green wires, strip off a small bit of the black and red wires, and solder them to the red and black wires of the peltier unit. Wrap with electrical tape or use heatshrink tubing. If you need information on correct soldering procedure or the use of heatshrink tubing, there are many excellent Instructables that will gve you all the information you need, simply do a search! <br>Optionally, you can attach a 1K limiting resister in between the red and black wires, although you are quite safe at the voltage and mA to not really need one. <br>Now, plug in your USB cable to a USB port on your PC, and within about 30 seconds you will be able to feel one heatsink become very cool while the other becomes warm. Note which heatsink becomes cool, as that's what we'll want to encase inside the mini fridge. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Attch a USB Cable" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FN5C42ZF9AZJTBI/Attch-a-USB-Cable.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 4 Building the Fridge!</h4> <p>I used foamboard because of its ease in cutting with an xacto knife and its insular properties, and basically built a box around the heatsink using a hot glue gun to attach the sides and top, and then ran a line of hot glue along the seams to ensure an airtight compartment. The bottom piece is cut into two halves, with a square section cut out in the center to make room for the peltier unit. I then glued the two halves to the underside of the cooling heatsink, then glued the left, back, and right sides of the fridge, and finally the top. See the diagram below: <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Building the Fridge!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FPADRUTF9AZJTDD/Building-the-Fridge.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 5 Final Assembly and Extra Touches</h4> <p>I used white plastic tape to hinge the door, although you could certainly use small hinges from a hardware store and simply glue them into place with the door fit into the front for proper opening and closing. I glued small lengths of foamboard inside the fridge assembly and then glued cut pieces of a flexible refridgerator magnet on both the inside of the door and the foamboard lengths to make a magnetic "catch" to hold the door closed. I also threw in a battery powered White LED and used a leaf switch to turn the light on when the door was open. I ran the wiring of the leaf switch along the inside and through a small hole in the back to attach to the AA battery holder glued to the outside back of the fridge, then used white plastic tape along the wire run, attaching it to the interior side. <br>For the handle I used a cheap hardware store drawer pull. <br>As you can see by the door, I wanted this to look like a store "cooler" that you see for drinks, so I cut a window and hot glued a section of plexiglass in the window. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Final Assembly and Extra Touches" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FBGNVSHF9AZJTBG/Final-Assembly-and-Extra-Touches.jpg"> <p> <p><img alt="Final Assembly and Extra Touches" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FG6/1UQH/F9AZJTBH/FG61UQHF9AZJTBH.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 6 The Final Result</h4> <p>As you can see by the pictures, this cooler will hold a large bottled water, or a tall 20 oz plastic soda bottle, although my drink of choice is a Starbucks Vanilla Frappucino! The cooler will keep drinks at about 45-50 degrees and works best when your drink is already cold for obvious reasons. Optionally, you could use a 1 amp 7.5 volt DC adapter, which will lower the temperature significantly without making the lower heatsink too hot for placement on regular surfaces. In this instance, I would strongly recommend that you add the 1K limiting resistor in order to keep the DC adapter from becoming hot. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="The Final Result" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FTLJJLDF9AZJTBF/The-Final-Result.jpg"> <p> <p><img alt="The Final Result" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F31/YJ5F/F9AZJTBE/F31YJ5FF9AZJTBE.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 7 Tricking it out!</h4> <p>Now, add graphics from your favorite game or website and make your mini-fridge a one of a kind creation. I printed out on a sheet of inkjet transparency film to create the see through graphics you see here. Have fun, and watch the video for the nice ending... ;) <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Tricking it out!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F0B4QXQF9AZJTBD/Tricking-it-out.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-1876385080306410082010-06-19T12:25:00.001+01:002010-06-19T12:25:59.351+01:00Macro ("close-up") photography with an iPhone<h4><font color="#fefaf5">Macro ("close-up") photography with an iPhone</font></h4> <p>Get much closer to subjects than usual simply by adding a low-cost macro lens attachment to your iPhone's exisiting camera lens -- with no risk of damage. <p> </p> <p><img alt="Macro (\" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FS3G1NPG61AWDWZ/Macro-close-up-photography-with-an-iPhone.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <span class="fullpost"> <p><img alt="Macro (\" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F74/DUV6/G61AWDWY/F74DUV6G61AWDWY.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Macro (\" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FBY/QWWR/G61AWDWX/FBYQWWRG61AWDWX.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Macro (\" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FLM/0GOW/G61AWDWW/FLM0GOWG61AWDWW.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Macro (\" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F8X/EKTB/G61AWEFJ/F8XEKTBG61AWEFJ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 1 Get a "pocket" magnifier</h4> <p>Mine was sold as a Jeweller's Loupe. It magnifies 8X. I bought it from an Optometrist. You can also get them in model shops, craft centres and hobby outlets. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Get a \" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F74DUV6G61AWDWY/Get-a-pocket-magnifier.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 2 Cover the iPhone lens with the magnifier</h4> <p>The magnifier must be right up close to the iPhone lens. My iPhone has a silicone case for better grip. I push the magnifier hard up against the hole in it. Then there's no risk of scratching that slippery phone casing or, even worse, dropping everything! <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Cover the iPhone lens with the magnifier" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FBYQWWRG61AWDWX/Cover-the-iPhone-lens-with-the-magnifier.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Move the camera and magnifier together</h4> <p>Go in close to your subject until you see what you want. Take it. Enjoy!<br>Here you see the business end of the magnifier and, right in the centre, the iPhone's own little lens. I used a mirror for this shot to prove it really does work. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Move the camera and magnifier together" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FLM0GOWG61AWDWW/Move-the-camera-and-magnifier-together.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Notes</h4> <p>Work in bright light. The extra optics lose light, so you don't want blurry shots from camera shake. An app like Gorillacam may help with hand-held photos. Mini-tripods are good too but they tie you down a bit with fast moving things like insects.<br>Make sure the magnifier is centrally positioned over the iPhone's lens, or you will risk cutting off the corners of your pictures. What you see is what you get.<br>There's no reason why any phone camera should not give similar results.<br>If you prefer to work single-handed, use Blu-Tak or simillar to fix magnifier temporarily. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Notes" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F0RL9H6G61AWEIC/Notes.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 5 Distances</h4> <p>frollard suggested I show the kind of working distance this setup gives. As you can see here, it's very close, so take care not to shadow your own shot. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Distances" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FN7C3WTG619L0PZ/Distances.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 6 Here's the iPhone shot from Step 5</h4> <p>In Step 5 the iPhone 3GS was "told" to focus on the Roman numerals at twelve o'clock (XII). <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Here\" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FX87BV3G619L0PY/Heres-the-iPhone-shot-from-Step-5.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 7 Alternative design of magnifier</h4> <p>This is a lightweight plastic design of magnifier. It is easy to fix to the back of the iPhone using Blu-Tak or similar. This kind is sometimes sold as a watchmakers loupe (lupe). They are also used for inspecting printed circuit boards (PCBs) and woven fabrics like fine cotton or silk.<br>Now you can work with one hand free. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Alternative design of magnifier" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FDNRRERG619HQYN/Alternative-design-of-magnifier.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 8 Versatile loupe</h4> <p>This design from Bausch & Lomb (USA) has two independent lenses. Each lens has a different optical power. You can use them individually or combine them for maximum effect. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Versatile loupe" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FMQUOUKG68HDJMB/Versatile-loupe.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-52141096055017307522010-06-19T09:41:00.001+01:002010-06-19T09:42:32.775+01:00Remove Scratches from a CD/DVD with Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly)<h4><u><font color="#ffffff">Remove Scratches from a CD/DVD with Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly)</font></u></h4> <p>Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) can be used for chapped lips, dry skin, and for getting rid of head lice; but how about making CDs and DVDs readable again? Well, it does that too. There are also other ways to do this on the Instructables website, but I will show you the one that I believe works best. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Remove Scratches from a CD/DVD with Vaseline <br />(Petroleum Jelly)" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FYEDE2QG7DYK968/Remove-Scratches-from-a-CDDVD-with-Vaseline-Petr.jpg"> <p></p> <span class="fullpost"> <h4>step 1 Materials</h4> <p>Before you start removing scratches from your CDs and DVDs, you should grab your materials. To perform the directions in this Instructable, you will need the following materials:<br>- Soft Cloth or Disc Cleaner/Repair<br>- Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline, Store Brand, etc.)<br>- Minor to severely scratched discs <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Materials" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F9YTSLPG7DYPO4X/Materials.jpg"> <p><img alt="Materials" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FO9/MEUS/G7DYPO4T/FO9MEUSG7DYPO4T.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Materials" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJO/2FWH/G7DYK96M/FJO2FWHG7DYK96M.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Materials" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FDO/1V50/G7DYYNIS/FDO1V50G7DYYNIS.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 2 Cleaning Time!</h4> <p>Now it's time to apply the petroleum jelly. I will demonstrate both ways to do this (the tissue and the disc cleaner). <br>**UPDATE** Thanks to all of the comments, I have learned that you should not rub in small circular motions as show in picture #1, but instead follow inner perimeter of the disk. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Cleaning Time!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FQBE6HJG7DYPO5Z/Cleaning-Time.jpg"> <p><img alt="Cleaning Time!" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FWB/04IW/G7DYK9EJ/FWB04IWG7DYK9EJ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 3 Remove the Scratches</h4> <p>Once that is done, you will need to get rid of the excess grease. If you did it with a tissue, get a damp cloth<strong> </strong>and start scrubbing. <em> (Do NOT use rubbing alcohol unless you want a warped disc)</em> If you did it with that disc cleaner on the other hand, just hit the start button, wait for it to finish, and repeat the directions above. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Remove the Scratches" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FNVIDTEG7DYYNLL/Remove-the-Scratches.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Finished!</h4> <p>All clean! As you can see, there are no more visible scratches. If this didn't work for you, try peanut butter. Rumor has it that it works.<br>If there are any improvements that need to be made, please do not hesitate to comment. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Finished!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FY35SDPG7DYK9H8/Finished.jpg"> <br /></span>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-74731366976172154202010-06-12T11:18:00.001+01:002010-06-19T09:16:59.549+01:00Add a USB Power Outlet in Your Car<h4> </h4> <p>Add a USB Power Outlet in Your Car <p>Given the bulky nature of 12volt adapters for vehicles, I decided to integrate a USB power outlet in my 2010 Prius III. Although this mod is specific to my car, it can be applied to many cars, trucks, RV's, boats, ect. <p><img src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FDPBS45G0AMFK3L/Add-a-USB-Power-Outlet-in-Your-Car.jpg"></p> <span class="fullpost"> <h4>step 1 Finding a location for the USB power plug</h4> <p>In the 2010 Prius III there is an unused outlet next to the 12volt aux power in the front center console. I disassembled the center console and removed the plastic housing of the blank outlet and the 12volt aux. <p> <p><img src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FG33UDTG0AMFK41/Finding-a-location-for-the-USB-power-plug.jpg"> <p><img src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F7H/G3ND/G0AMFK48/F7HG3NDG0AMFK48.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 2 The USB 12 volt car adapter</h4> <p>I disassembled a Dynex USB power adapter and removed the circuit board from the plastic housing, then removed the 12 volt supply wires. The supply wires were springs and such, and too bulky to reuse. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="The USB 12 volt car adapter" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FPE32GKG0AMFK9P/The-USB-12-volt-car-adapter.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 3 Preparing the blank cover</h4> <p>Once the blank cover (plug) is removed, I found it to be filled with a dense lattice of plastic. To fit the USB power circuit in it, a lot of the plastic needed to be cut out. Using an Exacto knife, and a box cutter, I cleared the inside of the cover. <p> <h4>step 4 Fitting the USB circuit board</h4> <p>I used a Dremel tool with a grinding attachment to slim down the USB's circuit board until it slid into the hollowed out cover. Once the fit was right, it was time to make the hole on the face to access the USB plug. <p> <h4>step 5 Making the hole for the USB power</h4> <p>I approximated the center of the USB plug and drilled a tiny hole through the face of the blank accessory plug. <p><img alt="Making the hole for the USB power" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F0QSY5DG0AMJYET/Making-the-hole-for-the-USB-power.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 6 Wiring</h4> <p>Once I trimmed the opening, It was time to wire the 12 volt power to the USB adapter. Since the 12 volt accessory was right next to it, I soldered the ground from the USB board to the cigarette adapter, and attached the positive end to a nut on the back. <p><img alt="Wiring" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FRYMF26G0AMFK4J/Wiring.jpg"> <p><img alt="Wiring" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F7M/9OKB/G0AMFK4I/F7M9OKBG0AMFK4I.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 7 Fixing the LED</h4> <p>The USB board has a 2 color LED to indicate power and charging. I wanted the light to shine behind the USB plug, so I de-soldered the LED and repositioned it to face forward. I had to add some wire to the board to attach the LED, but it was not hard, and could be done by a beginner. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Fixing the LED" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F8COQREG0AMFK4S/Fixing-the-LED.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 8 Securing the USB board</h4> <p>After making sure the 12 volt accessory and USB power were working, the package needed to be glued into place to prevent it falling back into the center console. I used a general auto glue that holds tight, but remains slightly flexible. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Securing the USB board" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FD6RLRRG0AMFK50/Securing-the-USB-board.jpg"> <p><img alt="Securing the USB board" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FVR/OIUK/G0AMFK4Z/FVROIUKG0AMFK4Z.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 9 Final install</h4> <p>I let the glue cure overnight. After testing the power out one more time, I slipped the plastic housing back into place. Nice! <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Final install" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FIZVBSLG0AMFK8T/Final-install.jpg"> <p><img alt="Final install" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FWY/JVVE/G0AMFK8S/FWYJVVEG0AMFK8S.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p><img alt="Final install" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FYS/QTK9/G0AMFK8Q/FYSQTK9G0AMFK8Q.MEDIUM.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-4805278518443148672010-06-13T03:03:00.001+01:002010-06-19T09:15:48.665+01:00USB Cooler<p><img alt="USB Cooler" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FR2B1YYF82EXH4R/USB-Cooler.jpg"> <p></p> <p>what you need motor, (port USB = max. 2,5W !) 2 Cd, USB cable, papier or plastic tube Windmill Cut and form CD or DVD Cable Prepare USB cable, leav: red and black Folding .... Finish </p> <span class="fullpost"> <h4>step 1 what you need</h4> <p>motor, (port USB = max. 2,5W !) 2 Cd, USB cable, papier or plastic tube <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="what you need" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FOT6Z5HF82EXH3G/what-you-need.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 2 Windmill</h4> <p>Cut and form CD or DVD <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Windmill" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FW7PKCZF82EXH3P/Windmill.jpg"> <p><img alt="Windmill" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FYG/HEWJ/F82EXH3S/FYGHEWJF82EXH3S.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p><img alt="Windmill" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F3L/EI48/F82EXH3Q/F3LEI48F82EXH3Q.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p><img alt="Windmill" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FXN/F8HI/F82EXH45/FXNF8HIF82EXH45.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p><img alt="Windmill" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FF5/XQQE/F82EXH44/FF5XQQEF82EXH44.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 3 Cable</h4> <p>Prepare USB cable, leav: red and black <p><img alt="Cable" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FPRE42ZF82EXH4E/Cable.jpg"> <p><img alt="Cable" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F8A/QLIZ/F82EXH4D/F8AQLIZF82EXH4D.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 4 Folding</h4> <p>.... <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Folding" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FUYJXZFF82EXH4P/Folding.jpg"> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p><img alt="Folding" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F94/SKMC/F82EXH4O/F94SKMCF82EXH4O.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 5 Finish</h4> <p>... <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Finish" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FE1TVGEF82EXH4Z/Finish.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-1413226004488822362010-06-19T09:15:00.001+01:002010-06-19T09:15:06.089+01:00Computer control of AC devices<h4>introComputer control of AC devices</h4> <p>If you have ever wanted to control electronic devices from your computer to control or regulate your environment, this instructable will guide you. In this example of computer control, a USB relay device (USBmicro <a href="http://www.usbmicro.com">http://www.usbmicro.com</a> - U451) will control two 60 watt light bulbs from a PC program. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Computer control of AC devices" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FS9W2AQGAK6L420/Computer-control-of-AC-devices.jpg"> <p></p> <span class="fullpost"> <h4>step 1 Safety First!</h4> <p>First off - Any time that you work with 120V voltages, safety is paramount. If you are not comfortable working with mains power, please seek the assistance of someone who is.<br>This instructable is intended only for someone experienced and confident in wiring high voltages. Do not attempt to do this if you are not. Household current can kill or badly injure you if you who do not understand the danger.<br>Only the U451 relay contacts should be used for control/connection to 110V AC. The relay screw terminals are isolated from the other circuit connections. DO NOT touch the U451 when there is 110V AC present. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Safety First!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FS5OWQ9GAK6BHR7/Safety-First.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 2 Major parts</h4> <p>The major components used for this example instructable are: <ul> <li>USB relay interface USBmicro U451 <li>two light bulbs <li>lamp sockets <li>110V AC cord </li></ul>The example project will control two independent 110V AC lights with the two relays on the U451. The U451 and lights will be mounted on a wooden plank. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Major parts" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FC1SAADGAK6V4WU/Major-parts.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 3 Project mounting board</h4> <p>The lamp sockets are placed on either side of the wooden plank used for this project. The location of the lamps are copied to the plank and traced with a pen. A center line is drawn through the circle to aid in mounting the lamps. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Project mounting board" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FR6TXHWGAK6V4WW/Project-mounting-board.jpg"> <p> <p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/file/FR6TXHWGAK6V4WW/"></a> <p> <h4>step 4 Board parts</h4> <p>Four adhesive-backed felt pads are added to the bottom side of the board. This will prevent the board from scuffing the surface that the board is placed upon.<br>The lamp sockets in this example setup will rest on some washers to provide some space for the wires that lead out from the under side of the socket and to the U451. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Board parts" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FRPV60FGAK6V4X3/Board-parts.jpg"></p> <p> <h4>step 5 Mounting lamps</h4> <p>The lamp sockets are positioned and the screw locations marked with a pen. The screws and two washers are added and partially screwed in place. The lamp sockets loosely mounted as a "dry fit" just to see that they fit in place nicely. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Mounting lamps" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FZXIYGEGAK6L42T/Mounting-lamps.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 6 Mounting the U451</h4> <p>The U451 is mounted next to the lamps with small standoffs and #4 screws. Pictured are the two 3-screw headers - one for each relay. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Mounting the U451" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FN5NQH5GAK6BHS3/Mounting-the-U451.jpg"> <p></p> <p></p> <h4>step 7 Wiring parts</h4> <p>Because of the high voltage and current involved with this example, you must use a wire of sufficient diameter. In this case 16 gauge will suffice. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Wiring parts" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FQVUEREGAK7S3SJ/Wiring-parts.jpg"> <p> <h4>step 8 Hot wire connection to the U451</h4> <p>The pair of wires from the two-wire plug consists of "hot" and "neutral" represented by black and white respectively.<br>Hot connects to each of the two common "c" terminals on the U451. This example project uses a wire nut to make the connection from the single source hot/black wire to the two pigtail wires that lead to the U451. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Hot wire connection to the U451" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F773ZTQGAK7S3T6/Hot-wire-connection-to-the-U451.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <h4>step 9 Connections to lamp.</h4> <p>The neutral/white connection is split into two wire pigtails that connect to the lamp socket (silvered connection).<br>One black wire connects from the N.O. (normally open) screw terminal connection on relay 1 to this lamp socket (brass screw on socket) while the other lamp socket connects in a similar way to the N.O. connection for relay 2. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Connections to lamp." src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F697NDZGAK6L47P/Connections-to-lamp.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 10 Lamps and bulbs.</h4> <p>Mount the lamp sockets, tighten the screws. Install the light bulbs. These test bulbs were incandescent. Other more energy sensible light bulbs could be used.<br>Check your wiring. Once you are sure about the 110V AC connections, attach the USB cable to the U451 and your PC. Plug the AC plug into an outlet. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Lamps and bulbs." src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FJ9M28ZGAK6V573/Lamps-and-bulbs.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 11 Very simple PC programming</h4> <p>This project is brought to you by the magic of RobotBASIC. RobotBASIC (RB) is a free programming language and IDE (integrated development environment). It has support for controlling the USBmicro U451.<br>RB is free. FREE! You can write a program in the RB IDE and then save it as an .exe - a stand-alone executable that doesn't need the IDE to run. The USBm.dll is needed to go along with that file, but that is free, too.<br>I'm not going to get into the details of the program in this instructable. The entire program is the 35 lines in the image below. The program is easy to copy into the IDE and simply run. Here is the program as text: (note the spacing gets screwed up.)<br>// U451 relay control program<br>// If the DLL is found...<br>if usbm_DllSpecs() != ""<br>// And the device is found...<br>if usbm_FindDevices()<br>// Initialize the U451, outputs<br>n = usbm_DirectionB(0, 0xFF, 0xFF)<br>// Create title and two checkboxes for the relays<br>xyText 10,10,"Relay 1 Relay 2","",20,fs_Bold<br>for i = 0 to 1<br>addcheckbox "" + i, 10 + 120*(1-i), 60, " "<br>next<br>while true<br>for i = 0 to 1<br>if getcheckbox("" + i)<br>n = usbm_SetBit(0, i+8)<br>else<br>n = usbm_ResetBit(0, i+8)<br>endif<br>next<br>delay 100<br>wend<br>else<br>print "There are no Devices"<br>endif<br>else<br>print "The USBmicro DLL is not installed"<br>endif <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Very simple PC programming" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F06ENVDGAK6L48I/Very-simple-PC-programming.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 12 Running the program</h4> <p>When the program runs you are presented with two boxes that you can click on or off. If everything works the bulbs follow suit! <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Running the program" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F5Y99B2GAK6V57S/Running-the-program.jpg"> <p> </p> <h4>step 13 Let there be light!</h4> <p>You now have control of two lights in this example instructable.<br>This setup could easily be modified to control the power to almost anything that plugs in. And RobotBASIC (<a href="http://www.robotbasic.org">www.robotbasic.org</a>) can be used to make much more complex programs that, for instance, turn on electric devices based on a complex PC schedule.<br>Let there be light bulbs. :-) <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Let there be light!" src="http://www.instructables.com/image/F9KEGQDGAK6BI5T/Let-there-be-light.jpg"> <p><img alt="Let there be light!" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F03/26AI/GAK6V58K/F0326AIGAK6V58K.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h4>step 14 Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly...</h4> <p>...wire the relay into your own outlet.<br>Please see the specifications for the U451 for limits to the current for the devices you control. <p><a name="images"></a> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FYJQ5FJGALHA7JG/Updated-Instead-of-wiring-the-lamps-directly.jpg"> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FF0/TLKV/GALHA7JY/FF0TLKVGALHA7JY.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FSQ/4XPZ/GALHA7K8/FSQ4XPZGALHA7K8.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZ3/FKUD/GALHA7KJ/FZ3FKUDGALHA7KJ.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FW3/9JK5/GALHA7KW/FW39JK5GALHA7KW.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FAI/4EC6/GALHA7LE/FAI4EC6GALHA7LE.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZ9/KRCB/GALHA7N3/FZ9KRCBGALHA7N3.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FSE/EX6F/GALHA7NF/FSEEX6FGALHA7NF.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FAT/CSM9/GALHA7NS/FATCSM9GALHA7NS.MEDIUM.jpg"> <p></p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="Updated: Instead of wiring the lamps directly..." src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FSS/SSUY/GALHA7IT/FSSSSUYGALHA7IT.MEDIUM.jpg"> </span> iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-92137967231898418912009-02-27T07:01:00.000+00:002010-06-12T08:31:17.806+01:00Rotary Dialer<a href="http://www.iphoneappreviews.net/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/rotarydialer_app.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 480px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.iphoneappreviews.net/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/rotarydialer_app.jpg" /></a><br /><div><span class="fullpost" style="color:#ff9900;"><strong>Rotary Dialer</strong></span></div><br /><div></div>Joshua Minor clearly has way too much time on his hands! Rotary Dialer turns your sleek state-of-the-art iPhone into a piece of crap rotary phone, the kind that hit the Endangered List about 30 years ago and now can only be found at garage sales and kitschy retro stores.<br />Normally this is where I’d go off about how the dialer could be more accurate and how it should make that rotary dialing sound (which it doesn’t) but what the hell, it’s free and it’s a funny joke for about 5 minutes. Break this thing out at a party and the drunks will have a good laugh or use it to convince granny that this is truly the peak of modern technology.<br />Btw, it’s a rotary dialer for dialing only. Once the call starts, you’re jolted back into reality by the sickeningly modern iPhone keypad.<br /><br /><strong><span style="color:#ff9900;">download</span></strong><br /><a href="http://www.mdmn.net//download.php?filename=21020ca0bc.zip">http://www.mdmn.net//download.php?filename=21020ca0bc.zip</a>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-64610398640788848192009-03-03T11:04:00.000+00:002010-06-12T08:31:17.805+01:00iCamiCam<br /><div></div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 477px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 315px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://ec.mashable.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/icam.jpg" /><br /><span style="color:#ff9900;"><strong>iCam description</strong></span><br />iCam allows you to stream up to four live webcam video feeds to your iPhone or iPod Touch over WiFi, 3G, or EDGE.<br />Please note that to use iCam you will also need to download the free iCamSource software from <a href="http://skjm.com/icam/">http://skjm.com/icam/</a><br />The iCamSource software supports Mac OS X 10.4 and later, with a Windows XP/Vista version currently in beta.<br /><br /><br /><span style="color:#ff9900;"><strong>Download iCam</strong></span><br /><a href="http://www.zshare.net/download/56446670fca93bb8/">http://www.zshare.net/download/56446670fca93bb8/</a>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-65984871550192353962009-03-04T12:40:00.000+00:002010-06-12T08:31:17.804+01:00Air Mouse<a href="http://www.mrpure.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/ss2.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 253px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 467px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.mrpure.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/ss2.jpg" /></a><br /><div></div><strong><span style="color:#ff9900;">Air Mouse description</span></strong><br />Air Mouse instantly transforms your iPhone or iPod touch into an in air, wireless mouse for your computer! Sit back and surf the web, browse your photo library or control your music player from the comfort of your couch. Air Mouse uses the iPhone's accelerometer to translate your hand motions into mouse movements on your screen. It can also operate as a touchpad, allowing you to control your computer with a single fingertip. Air Mouse is an essential part of any home theater PC and a presenters best friend.<br /><div></div><br /><div>Download Air Mouse</div><div><a href="http://www.4shared.com/file/90535693/2240144e/Air_Mouse-v152_by_noneoriente.html">http://www.4shared.com/file/90535693/2240144e/Air_Mouse-v152_by_noneoriente.html</a></div><div><a href="http://www.2shared.com/file/4994920/473de6d7/Air_Mouse-v152_by_noneoriente.html">http://www.2shared.com/file/4994920/473de6d7/Air_Mouse-v152_by_noneoriente.html</a></div>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-69935301322866179062009-02-26T01:17:00.001+00:002010-06-12T08:31:01.063+01:00TubeDeluxe<div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>TubeDeluxe</div><br /><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 480px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://images.appshopper.com/screenshots/300/139358.jpg" /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><p></p><p></p><p><span style="color:#ff9900;"><strong>Application description</strong></span> </p><br /><p>99c FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY!</p><br /><p>Get TubeDeluxe for 59p now, and a few weeks time you're going to get an upgrade to version 2.0 for nothing! The next version (2.0) has stability & speed enhancements, landscape map, shake to update status, departure boards (with favorites) and locate nearest stations by any address you enter. Version 2.0 is in the approval process now.</p><br /><p></p><br /><p><span style="color:#ff9900;"><strong>Download</strong></span> </p><br /><p>TubeDeluxe</p><br /><p>link</p><br /><p><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?zzbmznyjrjw">http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?zzbmznyjrjw</a></p><br /><p>mirorr</p><br /><p><a href="http://www2.zippyshare.com/v/8464848/file.html">http://www2.zippyshare.com/v/8464848/file.html</a></p><br /><p>mirorr</p><br /><p><a href="http://www.badongo.com/file/13344260">http://www.badongo.com/file/13344260</a></p><br /><p>mirorr</p><br /><p><a href="http://www.appscene.org/download.php?id=864035363">http://www.appscene.org/download.php?id=864035363</a></p><br /><p></p>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1202716930625734453.post-80386778922468475582009-08-11T17:53:00.000+01:002010-06-12T08:30:32.776+01:00ABContacts: Contacts Manager, Smart Groups, Dialer, Favorites all in one<a href="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_4.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 480px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_4.jpg" /></a><br /><div><a href="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_2.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 480px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_2.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_3.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 480px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_3.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_1.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 480px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_1.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_0.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 480px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://images3.appbeacon.com/290051011_0.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><strong>ABContacts: Contacts Manager, Smart Groups, Dialer, Favorites all in one</strong></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>Latest version: 1.4.3</strong></div><div> </div><div>Application description</div><div>MacWorld.com 4/5 : ABContacts is jam-packed with powerful features to improve the experience of managing your iPhone or iPod touch contacts.<br /><br /></div><div><span class="fullpost">Download</span></div><div><a href="http://www.appscene.org/download.php?id=686643731">http://www.appscene.org/download.php?id=686643731</a></div></div></div></div>iphonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07642737616670627025noreply@blogger.com0